[solved] esc spins up when setting elevator rates below 60?

[hcker2000]

As far as I can tell every thing is set up as it should be. Only thing I'm doing is using channel 5 as an additional alerion channel in the mixer.

Thoughts on why when setting the rates less than 60 for elevator it would spin up channel 2?

[Daedalus66]

Do you mean the motor starts if the elevator is anywhere other than in the range 60 to 100%, I.e., nearly full up (or down)?

Let's eliminate variables such as the ESC. What does the graphic output screen show when you move only the elevator stick? It should show only the elevator channel (CH3) moving. And what happens if you create a new basic four channel model? Answers to these questions are needed to narrow the possibilities.

The immediate thought is that you must have a mix with elevator input on your throttle channel (CH2). I suggest you post your EEPE file.

[hcker2000]

It only happens when changing the rates. I can move the elevator stick like normal and every thing is as it should be. I will see if I can find my programmer and pull off the eepe file as I checked my mixes and I dont see any thing wrong. I had to invert the ailerons so there set to -100 but as far as I can tell nothing is setup to mix with any thing else.

[jhsa]

The first couple of posts seem to have gone missing
So, please tell us again, what firmware and radio are you using?

João

[hcker2000]

Turnigy 9x with ER9x that was loaded some time in mid 2013.

[hcker2000]

Here is my eepe file. The one I'm working on is Dusty firmware is er9x-r804

[jhsa]

Dusty? you mean FT-Dusty??

Is the throttle supposed to be on channel 2? because when I loaded your eeprom in eepe that is what it shows..

Also, you are using an old version of the firmware. A few bugs were fixed since then, as well as some new features were implemented.. Maybe it is time to update the firmware and see if it fixes the problem?

João

[hcker2000]

You got it. It's a project my son and I have been working on as he loves the movies.

It's a scratch build from the flite test plans.

I tied to fly it the other day before setting thw throws and let me just say don't do that.

I am not apposed to flashing the latest firmware. Will that eepe file import ok to the newest firmware?

[jhsa]

I think so. But if there is a problem you can open both the file you posted and the new eeprom, and drag the models from one to the other..
I take it you have already updated the firmware at least once and are familiar with the process?

Me and my son also finished our Dusty ( my Son's favorite) last week. I like aggressive planes but couldn't use the recommended high rates on this one.. Ok I confess I exagerated on the throws
But the plane ended up too heavy and under powered with the motor I'm using. Changing the prop made things a bit better. But I can see it hanging from the ceiling in my Son's bedroom in the future
Here is a picture of it just before the maiden.. nearly gave me an heart attack this thing

[hcker2000]

That looks really good. How did you end up painting it?

Yea I plowed ours into the ground both times I tried with no rates set. It held up well though and only wrinkled up the nose but hey he gets damaged in the movie too. I'm running an 8" prop with a 1400kv generic motor and it seemed to have enough power though it was only in the air for 20 seconds or so.

Yea flashing it should be easy enough and now that I have the eepe file of my models its easy enough to add them back in even if I had to do it by hand. So tonight I will flash it with the latest and reload my models and see if the problem is still there. I have a sneaky idea that its a bug in the firmware that I have.

[jhsa]

That looks really good. How did you end up painting it?

A can of orange paint and custom made stickers My Dusty is heavy.. First flight barely had power to stay in the air..
Bigger prop on the second flight made things a bit better..

Yea flashing it should be easy enough and now that I have the eepe file of my models its easy enough to add them back in even if I had to do it by hand. So tonight I will flash it with the latest and reload my models and see if the problem is still there. I have a sneaky idea that its a bug in the firmware that I have.

I remember that some time ago Mike made big improvements on how stick modes are handled.. Not sure it was around that version number though.. So, maybe the best really is to update er9x to the latest..
You will find that there was a big improvement on the menus as well.. They are all organized now.

Good luck with that. I hope your problem will be solved..

João

[hcker2000]

I take it you must have removed the paper before painting?

I will post back after I flash with the latest and try setting the throws again.

[jhsa]

No, I actually didn't.. Maybe that is why it is heavy.. It was my first FT model, and my first time using foamboard and hot glue to build a model.

Use eepe to download the latest er9x version for you. I would start by updating eepe first

João

[hcker2000]

I left the paper on as well and thats how the flite test crew does it. I just wondered as most of the time if you use rattle can paint it will release the paper from the foam.

[jhsa]

Not on mine. What it did do was to warp the horizontal stabilizer It has a little dihedral now, but that is not a problem I painted only one side and that caused it to bend upwards.. As I said, I wasn't familiar with the material..

João

[hcker2000]

Ahh yea that can happen. You should check out this youtube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgBrB3IK-i8

[jhsa]

Thanks, I will watch it..

João

[hcker2000]

Well I didn't get a chance to flash it last night so I was going to bring it to work with me and flash it. I forgot it at home though. So tonight I will flash it and report back.

[hcker2000]

Firmware upgraded. Seems to have fixed the problem but I also removed -100 in the mixer on channels 1 and 5 and set them to INV on the other screen

[Daedalus66]

I have had success painting foam board with Minwax polyurethane (wiping off all excess) before assembly. If you don't do something to waterproof the models, they come apart if landed in deep grass. As for spray painting, multiple light coats is the answer. I used Krylon. Lots of info on the FT website, though some of it is contradictory.

[jhsa]

Firmware upgraded. Seems to have fixed the problem but I also removed -100 in the mixer on channels 1 and 5 and set them to INV on the other screen

But channels 1 and 5 are the ailerons, right? You had problems with elevator and throttle.. Anyway, good that the problem is fixed

[jhsa]

I have had success painting foam board with Minwax polyurethane (wiping off all excess) before assembly. If you don't do something to waterproof the models, they come apart if landed in deep grass. As for spray painting, multiple light coats is the answer. I used Krylon. Lots of info on the FT website, though some of it is contradictory.

Yeah, I have seen the video. The problem is that I don't know what is the equivalent to minwax here.. I did want to paint the plane with light coats but the nozzle of the can decided to go bad and stop working. I did fix it with another from other can that I had but had to make a lot of pressure and push forward for it to work. So I ended up giving quite heavy coats before that thing would stop working again. You see, I could go back to the shop and change it but it would cost me more money in petrol and time than I paid for the material for the entire plane
Next one will be better. The warped stab doesn't influence the flight as far as I know..

[hcker2000]

But channels 1 and 5 are the ailerons, right? You had problems with elevator and throttle.. Anyway, good that the problem is fixed

Correct so I think the elevator / throttle issue was a bug. I just moved the inverting out of the mixer as it seems to belong on the other screen (not even sure which section thats under)

[Daedalus66]

I have had success painting foam board with Minwax polyurethane (wiping off all excess) before assembly. If you don't do something to waterproof the models, they come apart if landed in deep grass. As for spray painting, multiple light coats is the answer. I used Krylon. Lots of info on the FT website, though some of it is contradictory.

Yeah, I have seen the video. The problem is that I don't know what is the equivalent to minwax here.. I did want to paint the plane with light coats but the nozzle of the can decided to go bad and stop working. I did fix it with another from other can that I had but had to make a lot of pressure and push forward for it to work. So I ended up giving quite heavy coats before that thing would stop working again. You see, I could go back to the shop and change it but it would cost me more money in petrol and time than I paid for the material for the entire plane
Next one will be better. The warped stab doesn't influence the flight as far as I know..

There's plenty of info on the FT site about alternatives to Minwax. Take a look at the comments on the video.

[jhsa]

I will, thanks Nigel..

João

[Daedalus66]

Material on Minwax from Flite Test:

http://flitetest.com/articles/minwax-on-your-plane

I am from Switzerland and I have the same problem as you. I wasn't able to find any product delivering the same result as the minwax...
I have found this website where they ship worldwide. The shipping cost is twice the price of the product but why not... I've just ordered mine... Let's see! http://www.thepaintstore.com

ZAR ULTRA Polyuretanlack should be a good replacement here in Europe. - See more at: http://flitetest.com/articles/minwax-on ... OelqJ.dpuf

Minwax poly is essentially the same as 'Ronseal Hardglaze' - or as it's known today - 'Ronseal Ultra Tough Varnish'. Comes in three flavours, gloss/satin/matt. It's oil based. I've been using it for around 50 years, so its a proven product available in europe. Try your local B&Q in the UK - unsure of a diy retailer name on mainland europe. I have seen Ronseal products in Spanish stores. Tip: If you want to make it a 'wipeable' variety, then just cut it about 50% with white spirit. FWIW, the finish is fuelproof too

In sweden I found the same product at Biltema. http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bat/Kemikalier ... ack-30554/

Try Zinsser seal coat, or any other de-waxed shellac. Hot glue still sticks to it, it dries in an hour or two, and it doesn't smell bad- the odor is denatured alcohol evaporating. I did a test with a couple pieces of foam board, one coated, the other not. Glued em together, the paper on the uncoated piece peeled before the glue did. -

FOR ALL EUROPEANS heres a Dutch product which is said to have the same properties as minwax: http://www.nonpaintstore.de/de/de-ijsse ... =De-IJssel

I have good news for us. Minwax is now in Europe. http://www.maszynoimpex.com.pl

Just slightly off topic!

[jhsa]

Thank you very much.