Dead after flashing

[solmer]

Hi

I think I've fried my Eurgle 9x

After soldering the wires for flashing it with my usbasp I got an error from the eepe software, I was trying to flash it without luck until I saw a message.... use -F to force... GREAT !!! Thats sounds good soooooo lets put -F .... I saw the usbasp working and then the radio doesnt works.... If I turn on the radio I get a blank screen (whith the light on 'cause I've a backlight......) but no sound no letters NOTHING !!!!

Could someone help me? Any Ideas?

Thanks in advance for helping

Good winds....

[Kilrah]

Do NOT use -F.
If there is an error, there's a reason. -F ignores errors and goes on like nothing has happened, but as there is a problem somewhere it might indeed break things.

The first thing would be to troubleshoot the programmer and connection, so that there is NO error. Then reprogram the fuses, and reflash. The problem is that now it will be hard to know if an error comes from the connections or the corrupt flashing.

Any pics of your installation to share?

[jhsa]

Take a close picture of your board. then we can see if you have a so called V1 board for example.

[ShowMaster]

Where are you located solmer?
SM


ShowMaster
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

[solmer]

Hi

Thnaks for the inputs , I don't know if I'll fix it but getting inputs helps a lot !!!!

I've flashed hundreds of micropics and Atmels but never on a Radio, I know its not a good idea to ignore warnings and error while dealing with micrioUs but I was in a hurry.... was my fault...

I'll take pictures of the board tomorrow on the morning 'cause I've some pictures taken with my cellular and them are really blurry so I need to re-take 'em. I think the board it's OK but the firmware its gone cause I've re-checked the connections twice and they're right, anyway I'll check 'em again to be sure. I'll look for burned-out components too. I tried to flash it with windows 7, XP an Ubuntu (Linux), using companion 9x, eepe and Extreme AVR burning but I got an error (0x000120) I googled for the problem but I can't find the solution. Trying with Extreme AVR burning software I can see that the Usbasp programmer is working, when i press read or write I get an error too but the usbasp works 'cause i can see the leds flashing so there is activity...

ShowMaster: I'm located at Madrid, Spain.

One more time , thanks for your help and sorry for my English

If there is no solution....Where I can find a replacement board? Can somebody sell me a new on?.

Good winds

[jhsa]

I think there will be a solution.. Some people even bricked their radios and brought them back to life.. after yours is sorted you will end up with more experience. I think it will come alive again

João

[solmer]

Reading some articles could be a fuse brick....

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=1349

Any advice? Could be my problem?

Thanks in advnace.

[Kilrah]

Yes that could be it - BUT again, if there was a programming error while the radio was new then there's something else, and this needs troubleshooting first.
What exact programmer do you have (ordrered where)?

[solmer]

Hi kilrah

The programmer used was a Usbasp from Ebay, looks like the Hobbyking one. I've checked the wires again and everything its ok. I'm gonna check to connect it to the rear usb ports 'cause the front one could be not enought power....

http://imageshack.us/a/img802/690/usbas ... usbavr.jpg


Thanks again

Good winds ....

[dvogonen]

The programmer in the picture, with the processor in 45 degrees angle to the bord, is the model that has worked best for me. I have tried two copies of that one, a HobbyKing one and a really tiny one were all component are crammed together. The 45 degree ones work every time. The others fail from time to time.
So you are probably good as far as programmers go.

[dvogonen]

The first thing I would try is to desolder all the programmer leads and check if the radio works. I had a short in a programmer wire harness that caused pretty much the same symptoms you describe.
But it is a long shot.

[solmer]

Hi again,

I'm 90% its a fuse brick

I've connected the Usbasp programmer in the rear port and if I try to re-write the fuses i get the same message I saw in Telemachus "dealing with a fuse brick" manual so adding a 1Mhz oscillator could fix the problem..... I'll get one next Monday and I'll post the result ASAP.

ADVICE : Use rear USB ports instead of front ones 'cause rear ports are in the MainBoard, front ports are connected using wires and thats makes a big difference ! Other times I've had problems while flashing I've fixed them using the rear ports... this time I was in a rush and I've paid the fault....

Hope to fix it on Monday.

Thanks again

Good winds.....

[solmer]

The first thing I would try is to desolder all the programmer leads and check if the radio works. I had a short in a programmer wire harness that caused pretty much the same symptoms you describe.
But it is a long shot.

Hi Dvogonen I'll try your solution right now.....

Thanks a lot

[Kilrah]

if I try to re-write the fuses i get the same message I saw in Telemachus "dealing with a fuse brick" manual

Which message?

[solmer]

if I try to re-write the fuses i get the same message I saw in Telemachus "dealing with a fuse brick" manual

Which message?

avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x0000
0xca != 0xff
avrdude: verification error; content mismatch

[MikeB]

Please post the pictures of the board and your wiring. Also, it doesn't look like you have tried slowing the programming clock down with the -B option. To read the fuses or the signature bytes you can have the clock running very slow (-B 1000).
There is also the possible problem with the large capacitor on the reset signal. Some programmers cannot drive the reset line quickly enough, and people have needed to remove the capacitor to allow their programmers to work. I use a STK500 dev kit, but I had to buffer the programming signals with high current drivers to get a decent programming speed, otherwise I needed 5 minutes to program it!

Mike.

[ShowMaster]

I bought 2 recommended 1 MHz Osc a while back from DigiKey I think it was. One and a spare to fill shipping fees.
I'll "loan" one out for shipping fees to and from. It's very small and may only be practical in the USA but it may be cheaper than buying it?
I could also sell it for the current cost and shipping to you. I just would like to have it used and reclaim some of the original cost if that works. Maybe a trade for something else I can store?
So, loan, buy, trade, beer, wine, donation to the forum or other contributors?
SM




ShowMaster
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

[solmer]

Please post the pictures of the board and your wiring. Also, it doesn't look like you have tried slowing the programming clock down with the -B option. To read the fuses or the signature bytes you can have the clock running very slow (-B 1000).
There is also the possible problem with the large capacitor on the reset signal. Some programmers cannot drive the reset line quickly enough, and people have needed to remove the capacitor to allow their programmers to work. I use a STK500 dev kit, but I had to buffer the programming signals with high current drivers to get a decent programming speed, otherwise I needed 5 minutes to program it!

Mike.

Ok ill post them en Monday, btw muy board its 1.4v.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Forum Runner

Good windsssss

[solmer]

I bought 2 recommended 1 MHz Osc a while back from DigiKey I think it was. One and a spare to fill shipping fees.
I'll "loan" one out for shipping fees to and from. It's very small and may only be practical in the USA but it may be cheaper than buying it?
I could also sell it for the current cost and shipping to you. I just would like to have it used and reclaim some of the original cost if that works. Maybe a trade for something else I can store?
So, loan, buy, trade, beer, wine, donation to the forum or other contributors?
SM

ShowMaster
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

Hi ! Thanks

Ill go to muy local store (its a rally big one) and ask for the oscill. If they dont have them in stock ill contqct you. Anyway thanks a lot for your help

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Forum Runner

Good windsssss

[MikeB]

I assume for your board version you are reading the silk screen, bottom right, saying something like:
FS-TH9 MAIN -V1.4
I have two boards I can quickly look at, both have this same version number on the silk screen, HOWEVER, one is what we call a V2 board while the other is a V1 board.
V1 boards have an error where the pad for the SCK programming connection is on the wrong track. That's why we are asking for pictures.
See the picture in this post viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1993&p=28183&hilit ... pad#p28183 for a V1 board with the pad in the wrong place, the little red circle shows where it should be.

Mike.

[solmer]

I assume for your board version you are reading the silk screen, bottom right, saying something like:
FS-TH9 MAIN -V1.4
I have two boards I can quickly look at, both have this same version number on the silk screen, HOWEVER, one is what we call a V2 board while the other is a V1 board.
V1 boards have an error where the pad for the SCK programming connection is on the wrong track. That's why we are asking for pictures.
See the picture in this post viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1993&p=28183&hilit ... pad#p28183 for a V1 board with the pad in the wrong place, the little red circle shows where it should be.

Mike.

Hi, yes my board reads FS-TH9 Main -V1.4 , looking the link you put in your post and looking at other pictures I've noticed mine its a V1. I've checked the SCK track on the board and since mine its V1 I've soldered the SCK wire to the resistor. Before putting a 1 Mhz oscillator I'll try to set the fuses using the B -100 option to slow down the process. Anyway I'll post closed up pictures of the mainboard as well as the solder points I've used to check if everything its ok.

One more time thanks for your imputs, I've faith in your post and I think I'm gonna fix it soon

[solmer]

Good morning

Here are the pics from my mainboard, I've got it with my cellular, but I think they are clear enough to see the wires....





I've re-checked the connections again and everything it's ok.... I'm thinking about removing the capacitor....

Thanks

[Rob Thomson]

How long are your leads from the board to the USBasp device?

Believe you should keep these as short as possible.

[ReSt]

Your board is a so called version1 with the pad of the orange wire in the wrong place.

Orange wire must be connected to the 6th processor pin from rigth side

Reinhard

[Rob Thomson]

Your board is a so called version1 with the pad of the orange wire in the wrong place.

Orange wire must be connected to the 6th processor pin from rigth side

Reinhard

I can't quite see in the pic... But looks like he has soldered it to the resistor on that pin?

[solmer]

Your board is a so called version1 with the pad of the orange wire in the wrong place.

Orange wire must be connected to the 6th processor pin from rigth side

Reinhard

Hi, yes its a V1 ant the orange wire goes to 6th pin from the right, the picture its not so clear but I've checked it and the connection its ok.

[jhsa]

it looks like the wire is soldered to the resistor that goes to the pad? That would be wrong.

[Kilrah]

Good morning

Here are the pics from my mainboard, I've got it with my cellular, but I think they are clear enough to see the wires....

OK. Then yes, looks like you did wire the SCK (orange wire) to the wrong resistor indeed.

On V1 the pad is on the wrong track. But you soldered the wire exactly where that track actually leads... The wire should go to the next resistor to the right.

[solmer]

How long are your leads from the board to the USBasp device?

Believe you should keep these as short as possible.

Hi, I think they are short enought 7cm...

[solmer]

Hi, the orange wire (SCK) its soldered to the 6th resistor from the right, so I think its corrent, isn't it?

a picture with the sold. point... The circle its where the SCK its soldered, the red X its the wrong pad...