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One of you guys need a spare case to paint up ? $20 plus shipping.

There is one faint scratch on the lcd display. It wasnt there till I went to clean the fingerprint of the inside with windex

http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=3040

Wow!

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

[quote="BENJAS"]this is my first work with my 9x, even I missing details, the technique is the following link, you use an inkjet printer
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Retail-3 ... 56005.html
/quote]

Wow! I'm sold, that's really cool. I was excited about my two new dips until I saw that.

Scott Page wrote:

BENJAS wrote:this is my first work with my 9x, even I missing details, the technique is the following link, you use an inkjet printer
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Retail-3 ... 56005.html
/quote]

Wow! I'm sold, that's really cool. I was excited about my two new dips until I saw that.

is very easy, buy the movie, print with your inkjet design, and transfer to your radio, you just have to practice a bit before applying the final pattern. do not use the recommended activator, print and transfer only ami radio, the end covered it with a clear coat

BENJAS wrote:this is my first work with my 9x, even I missing details, the technique is the following link, you use an inkjet printer
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Retail-3 ... 56005.html

The hydro transfer looks extremely cool. I was happy with my swirl paint...now I'm starting to reconsider if I can do whatever pattern/picture I would want.

formontoya wrote:

BENJAS wrote:this is my first work with my 9x, even I missing details, the technique is the following link, you use an inkjet printer
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Retail-3 ... 56005.html

The hydro transfer looks extremely cool. I was happy with my swirl paint...now I'm starting to reconsider if I can do whatever pattern/picture I would want.

I'm thinking of making a trough and doing the hydro method on a wing.

Aliexpress won't ship to our state because of some issue. But I found a stateside company that offers pre-printed PVA film http://www.dipwizard.com/Blank.html#!/~ ... ort=normal

I'm thinking wanting to have a carbon fiber TX case now. --- or at least the appearance of one.

Do fly with a tray. Ya, some over here do: and I pinch, not a thumb flyer as well. Currently designing a tray I want to make from acrylic that will be custom fit to both me and the transmitter (allowing for module in the back etc. I can afford acrylic but no way I can afford that much CF.

Yup... You have it right.. JHSA is starting to learn how to fly using the pinch method.. My flying improved heaps when I converted. Look forward to seeing what comes of your tray.. Sounds good..

yes I am.. Preparing myself in case HORUS is a tray only radio..

but I do agree we have better control using the pinch method..
when on the simulator, and flying a plane inverted about a meter from the ground I've noticed that I crash less if I use this method, even if I'm still not used to it.. I think it gives a better fine control of the aircraft.. maybe better for this kind of flying. that is what I like.. lot's of noise, lot's of power and an agressive but elegant way of flying.

João

If anyone in the UK would want to try hydrotransfer printing. I have the full set of carbon effect film and activator to give away for free.

I have always used the pinch method too, but never on a tray style radio, too bulky.

Personally

Turbo Thumbs.

They are superb sticks. I don't fly only with my thumbs, but my thumb and index finger.

Never had an issue with precision

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

I thought of laying the radio on the floor, sit down and extend the sticks so I can fly like in a 1:1 airplane..
No pedals though
Maybe a switched external pedalboard, like for the sims..

To switch to pinching as well as to get more condition myself to use rudder more with greater efficacy I fly (on the simulator) elevon planes with using rudder for the roll rather than aileron. My left index finger is retarded and resisted the change until several months of this "therapy".

Man, Scott, I love this one. It came out great! Especially the top half, where the pain got 'diluted'. At the bottom right it's still concentrate. Like you have the top half is how I wanted my radio to look like.

Flaps 30 wrote:Yup... You have it right.. JHSA is starting to learn how to fly using the pinch method.. My flying improved heaps when I converted. Look forward to seeing what comes of your tray.. Sounds good..

I'm not done, but nearly so. I need to work on the length and shape of the threaded rod. I also need to figure out exactly how I'm going attach the 6mm piece that will lock the handle in place. I can fix it with hex bolt, but that will make changing batteries (LiFe) a bit more of a chore. I want to devise a piece acrylic of that will snap into place. I'll look @ that tomorrow. Finally, I need to drill two holes -- one for the headphone jack on the left side, and one for the USB on the right side. One thing I don't like about the commercial tray's I've used is the wrist rests are too low. I have these very high because I have a tremor in my hands on occasion. I'm hoping that this will steady my hands.

I went with clear because after going to all the work to paint the TX -- the paint needs to show.
EDIT: Here is the lock to hold the Transmitter in place.
EDIT #2: This is the final product. It hangs dead level if hung from the strap.

Xavier wrote:Hello

I am new on the forum.

I did this :



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Cheers

Xavier

I registered to this forum just to ask you if you can help me (explain in detail) how you made this case...please contact me, this is the most beautiful thing I have ever seen

XDmToter wrote:
Thank you for sharing your work NSF. The new paint job was neat, but your labels really set it apart. I simply printed these on Avery labels, and then covered them with packing tape. Cut them out with a razor, and stuck them on. Very simple, yet makes a big difference. Thanks Again.

Nice hint tip with the Avery labels. but how have you made the label for the display screen? Is it a new one printed on vinyl or how did you made it?

Hoovernaut wrote:

XDmToter wrote:
Thank you for sharing your work NSF. The new paint job was neat, but your labels really set it apart. I simply printed these on Avery labels, and then covered them with packing tape. Cut them out with a razor, and stuck them on. Very simple, yet makes a big difference. Thanks Again.

Nice hint tip with the Avery labels. but how have you made the label for the display screen? Is it a new one printed on vinyl or how did you made it?

Those I made were printed as mirror image on clear vinyl and back sprayed with white rattle can spray. Then when stuck on the backside of the screen they are not mirror.

Scott Page wrote:Those I made were printed as mirror image on clear vinyl and back sprayed with white rattle can spray. Then when stuck on the backside of the screen they are not mirror.

On a NEW display screen (self made / laser cut etc..) ? Or on the original one? And when on the original: How to get rid of the existing printing on its backside?

Hoovernaut wrote:

Scott Page wrote:Those I made were printed as mirror image on clear vinyl and back sprayed with white rattle can spray. Then when stuck on the backside of the screen they are not mirror.

On a NEW display screen (self made / laser cut etc..) ? Or on the original one? And when on the original: How to get rid of the existing printing on its backside?

Had to cut new. I used thin plastic from the hobby shop they use for model care windshields. I think they said it was lexan??

Scott Page wrote:Those I made were printed as mirror image on clear vinyl and back sprayed with white rattle can spray. Then when stuck on the backside of the screen they are not mirror.

Thank you for your help so far. A last question (I hope ): How did you stick the vinyl on the back and the screen back to the case?

BTW: Has anyone the display screen drawing as dwg or dxf file? I want to ask some shops for a laser cut from file.

Edit: I have made a AutoCAD drawing from the display. For everyone who needs it.
I hope you can download it.

Display as dwg

Display as dxf

For everyone who is interested in a CAD drawing of the screen: Here is it in dwg and dxf file.

Display as dwg
Display as dxf

How can I upload files here? When I try to link files from google drive, my complete post will be deleted.
I wanted to upload the screen as CAD files in dwg and dxf.

Just zip them for example. Then post the zip file.

João

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

Okay, here we go... it should work now.
For everyone who need it. I have tried it to make it as exact as I could.

Screen as dxf and dwg

JustinTime wrote:I'm not as happy as I should be. I had an old transmitter that I used to make a practice run. It came out better, unfortunately, than the one I'm supposed to keep. I knew that hat would happen. If I ever do it again I'll not use white. The white falls to the bottom and comes up uncontrolled. It made dots on the final products and also caused some water bubbles. I caused some bobbles by swirling the paint to much and most likely to strong. I should not have swirled it that much. It came out too busy. In the practice one I probably didn't swirl it that much.


[thumbnail]http://openrcforums.com/forum/download/file.php?id=3660[/thumbnail]
Left is the Turinigy right is a old transmitter I used for practice
[thumbnail]http://openrcforums.com/forum/download/file.php?id=3659[/thumbnail]
Left the Turinigy right practice

Been lurking for a while and this post got me to join - really like these!
My first impression was "Is that some sort of a Swedish team theme?"
I've been looking at the YouTubes of hydrodipped X9 and X9R's - usually done in camo but there are the print-your-own films. A major aesthetic negative is that the pattern can't continue completely around the case. No matter how long a pattern sheet is cut, and how good one is at rolling the dip, there will be at least one seam. A carbon fiber pattern would be fine for dipping the case halves separately (and would probably work better around the handle), but most others really should be a smooth continuation front to back.
The X9R's separate mask does add some interesting contrast possibilities, no matter the method used on the case proper.

Now that winter has it's oppressive grip limiting flying opportunities I'm back working in the paint hood. My first project was a Taranis for my wife. I did not get as smooth of a finish as I would want for myself - but I was out of time as this is her Christmas Present and it takes about a day in the convection oven for every coat. Fortunately, FrSky sells the Transmitter screen, buttons, and labels so I didn't need to recreate them from scratch. The new thing I did to this case was that before I started clear coats I sprayed glitter. The spray glitter is so heavy that I had to stand about a meter from the transmitter so it would just lightly coat it. The glitter really doesn't show well in a still photo, but it shimmers in the sunlight.
I took the picture before making her a custom splash screen. I'll work on that today - probably put some christmas music on it for when she turns it on the first time as well.