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One more thing to try

I made a special version that tries to ignore the "LEFT" key.
Try flashing it and seeing if you get anything different.

Erazz-Got both files loaded. Took me to screen 4/6 (diag). I'm not sure what to check next as the stuck (left) key is very very intermittent. Like in 1 in 50 or more powerups.

Thanks for all the help.

Earl

This sounds like a more or less floating signal pin.
Try to solder a 100 k resistor form pin 16 to +5volt. If for some reason the internal pullup resistor does not work, this may help.
It it doesn't change anything, try it with 10 k.

Reinhard

ReSt - I had a 10k on hand and it did not change the left switch state. So I'm assuming the 100k would not either? Thanks....Earl

Earl, with the "noleft" version, were you able to move up or down through the main screens?

I just flashed the "noleft" version and I can change menus up and down. Progress

Hi all,

I am very impressed by the way you modify your tx... i have the same issue on mine with corrupted eeprom data and strange effects when i try to use the menus...or i get stucked on reading eeprom like you...

Flash seems ok. I used an old version of er9x and everythings worked fine.

When i try er9x r744 or r708 the tx become instable, displaying wrong characters in model names, hilighted menu items jumping itself to another...

When i restore the r347 everything is working fine, same for the restored eeprom...

I guess i'll be stucked to this version

regards

Hi all,

I have the same issue. Each time i try to flash my tx with the er9x r744 i have a bad eeprom data message. it formats eeprom and then i have a screen like shown in nogood.jpg. With r708 it does not work too! even if it is not the same, menus get instable, jumping from one to another when usinb buttons...
When i restore er9x r347 and eeprom everything is working fine.

I'm stucked to r347 version

Further back in this thread are some DEBUG versions of er9x by myself and Erazz. Try flashing those and tell us which you loaded and what the result is.

Mike.

Finally i made my tx working with the latest firmware... what i have done? Nothing great!

1/ I just compile the firmware from svn
2/ Flashing this firmware was ok but i got the same error : bad eeprom data.
3/ I was stucked on formatting eeprom
4/ I re-flashed with the same firmware until i have an alert on throttle not at the lowest position (flying in mode 1)
5/ I unplug the tx immediatly instead of trying to go further
6/ I restored my eeprom saved before flashing and it works

It seems that something going wrong with eeprom data.

The message "bad eeprom" means that the eeprom needs to be formatted. You need to press any button and WAIT. It takes a couple of seconds.
Alternitively, you can create an empty model in eePe and write that to the eeprom.

r347 is ancient! The eeprom from r347 is not compatible with eeproms from r708 and on.

Remember that unless you set the fuses to protect the EEPROM it will be erased when you flash new program.

I know that r347 was not compatible with r744 but that was a version that was always working! I was unable to format correctly the eeprom with recent firmware...
For my last try, maybe eepe has converted it to the right format.

That's weird... I'll test it out tonight.

erazz - Any idea what step(s) to take now? (pls. see my 3/16 post).

Thanks....Earl

Hi Earl,

The "noleft" version is simply a version with the left button disabled. You should play around with it and see if the menus work properly. You should be able to change screens by pressing (UP) or (DOWN). A long press on the (RIGHT) key should get you into the model edit section. Just play around with it and see if everything seems right. (left button won't work of course).
I can make a version that replaces that pin with another. Still, you'll be much better off with a "regular" version.

I think that we've pretty much narrowed it down to the "left" button being constantly "pressed". You should follow that trace and try to see if there are any breaks or shorts. If you want, you are more than welcome to send the board to me so I can have a look at it.

Erazz - It's alive! I decided to remove the board completely from the tx and re-inspect/clean. I used a dslr cleaning swab and isopropyl alcohol and was going to take you up on your generous offer to look at it. Thank you so much. Then I loaded r744 back in just for kicks. Now it works perfectly. I had cleaned the board before but apparently missed something. I was using cotton swabs before which was problematic as the dslr swabs don't catch on solder points. Do I need to re-install the three caps I removed? Again, thanks to all on the forum for the help!

Regards....Earl

hey, beer time well done

Awesome!!!

I don't think you need those caps. They offer some rf protection but I think this is more relevant for the original FW and with 72mhz.
Just enjoy the radio!

Hello Guyz,

Once again I am so amazed at how great this forum is and how helpful you all are. As some might remember my previous issues led to a bricked tx and some spare parts. After finally getting my new tx, I successfully repeated the telemetry mod and all worked great. My exp with previous tx helped alot in a smooth procedure. That was yesterday. I also have a backlight installed and yesterday started noticing something funny. I have it set to 5s on press intervals and after 5s it would dim but not turn off, also would start flickering (anyways i dont think it was related to what happened next). Next I started getting the same problem as the original issues of this thread. Splash screen getting stuck, sometimes completely unresponsive and sometimes would let me in, but the left button (original + button) would not be responsive and seem like its pressed in. Upon examining, i saw that I had some flux left over from the pin next to it, which was used for backlight screen. I have a bad habbit of dipping my iron into the flux container and i think small pieces of solder get left behind. Cleaned the pad wih iso. and seems to work ok now. Hopefully would stay that way. Love the er9x firmware (about to load r753 er9x.frsky.hex). Great work guys, I really think these chinese companies should hire this whole forum and make this great software available from the start...

the only thing, which is annoyingly persistent after everything else seems to work good is the backlight. I have it on for 5s, then if nothing is pressed it goes out. The only thing is that it doesnt go out completely, rather that it dims a lot. Its still on (just very dimmed) and annoyingly flickering. When the button is pressed it comes on full power and is working great. I suspect maybe the bs-170 is at fault. What do you guys think?

When you connected your mosfet. Did you also connect a resistor from the gate to ground? I don't know what the pin is doing in it's off state, so I might be wrong. If the pin goes high-impedance instead of pulling to ground it could cause the mosfet to turn on and off. If there is no resistor to ground, put one in. A high value like 10k or 100k would be just fine for this purpose. All it needs to do is keep the gate at ground and keep it from floating.
-Gohst

i connected it as per the instruction for backlight install. Gohst I apologize but iam not too electronically inclined.. Could you let me know which line to add resistor to? is it the ground line to the backlight?

Looks like it would go between the yellow and green. The green side should be ground(0V), and the yellow line connects to the processor. This pin on the mosfet is known as the gate. A high voltage at the gate will open it. A low voltage will keep it closed.
-Gohst

here i found an image of same procedure but with a resistor at the black line ( of my previous image). Gohst, you however sugest a resistor between line 2 and 3, correct? should I solder it parallel just as i drew it in the image?

Correct the new resistor goes just like you show it.

The old resistor is there to limit the current through the LEDs in the backlight.
The new resistor makes sure the mosfet stays off if 5V is not present from pin 17.
-Gohst

thank you Gohst, I will def. try it, let you know how it went....

beautiful , worked like a charm =) even though i had to just perform a micro surgery getting the two leads of mosfet exposed in a isolated by heat tube and lots of glue mess. hehe Also i didnt have any high value resistors at hand and just used what i had which was a 470 ohm. It works!! but should it be a problem you think?

It should be fine. With your lower value resistor you will need 10mA to drive your backlight. With a higher value resistor you will use less current, which is always better. a 10k resistor would use 0.5mA for comparison.
-Gohst

yes you are right. I will change the resistor tomorrow. Also with the 470 ohm it def works but still once in a blue would flicker, so higher value should do the trick 100%. Thanks again for your help. Its been a long road getting all the ticks resolved with this radio. I hope it will stay stable from now on. I am currently running r753 er9x.frsky.hex. Would you advise other versions or 753 is stable?

guyz how come there is no Trim Option in Model Settings on my er9x r753? in eepe i can see that tab (trims) but not in the tx, how can i set e.limits then without the trims tab in tx and without burning the new eeprom? im new to er9x so please excuse me if i said something that doesnt make sense, i was just wondering where you would set the e.limits, thanks...