openrcforums

Before I just buy a Taranis or a used 9XR Pro? I have a smartieboard 9x from 2013 that I'd like to upgrade to voice. I have 0 idea how to make my own so I figured I'd ask here even if its not likely. Thanks.

I do have one brand new in box, selling for the original $69 + $15 shipping anywhere.

Sent PM

Sold and shipped, have fun

Damn I've been buying and selling online since like 1997 when I started on ebay and this is definitely one of the fastest shippers I've dealt with. Thanks so much!

He might just live next door to the post office ha ha ha

João

Sent from my BLN-L21 using Tapatalk

Out with the old and in with the circa 2015 new.

Came so fast in the mail my xjt and microsd still are not here so gotta keep waiting to close it up. Xjt probably won't get here from Hong Kong and then milair for another 2 weeks...

Oh well thanks again!

Question. I have a lipo for it now, but I have a few old school futaba nimh chargers that fit the charge port on the 9x. If I were to put a nimh battery in it, would it be able to charge via the charge port? I know it's fine with the lipo but I don't like having to pull the battery and stuff it and all the wires into the 9x every time I want to charge.

Yes, the charge port should work as before, and I'm currently charging my 9Xtreme (9.6V NiMh) using it!

Mike

Ok well I have a brand new 7.2v Taranis 2500mah nimh with the correct balance plug to snap right into the 9Xs rear port. So I'm assuming that'll work I will just have to set my voltage alarms appropriately. 7.2v pack is enough to operate everything 100% right? Module is an XJT. I'm going to assume yes since it operates the Taranis lol.

BE CAREFUL, DO NOT just plug it in.
Check the polarity connections. The Taranis and the 9X use DIFFERENT connections.

Mike

The 9X uses black (negative) on the left and red (positive) in the centre.
The Taranis uses red (positive) on the left and black (negative) on the right.

Mike

Thanks for the heads up! If it's different I'll just have to redo the plug to match.

What is 6.8 or 7.0 a good alarm setting? Everything on the 9xtreme will get enough juice from the Taranis battery correct?

Mike good catch to warn about the power plug +/- polarity
between the 9x and Taranis radios.

I use Lipo batteries with the 9x radios and swap the connector pins in the plug
so that the center pin is + Red and the left pin is - Black wire.
This pin orientation is the same as what the servo plugs are,
which save us from accidentally destroying our RC hardware.

FrSky (Taranis) did not follow this pin orientation, so if you were to have both
9x and Taranis radios using Lipo batteries there is the danger of using the
battery with the wrong pin orientation and damaging both radios.

I chose the stay with the Ni-MH 7.2v for my Taranis-x9d and have upgraded it
to the 2600 mah battery, which works very well (right pin Red and left pin Black).

My 9xtreme radio seems to draw loads of current. it has of course 2 boards plus bluetooh, haptic and another receiver for wireless trainer. 2500mAH battery lasts one afternoon well, a bit more than that actually

João

Yeah I have the old Smartieparts 3 plug balance to Spectrum adapter on it now so I can just plug anything with a Spectrum plug right in. I'll just swap the pins when the Taranis battery comes in so it all lines up. The battery is the 2600mah unit so I'm hoping it'll last all day without issue. It's just the 9xtreme setup without any other bells and whistles.

Thanks again for the warning on the plugs. I had made a mental not to check it and I'd like to think I would have caught it but you know how that goes...

Did some reading on here and it looks like 7.0 would be a good alarm setting for low voltage? I know 7.2 is just nominal and it'll be 9 off the charger and like 8.5 after it settles.

The Ni-MH battery (7.2v) can be pulled down lower before it needs to be re-charged,
which I am thinking you would want to maintain over 5 volts when radio is powered on.

And with a 3S Lipo 2500mah battery you can charge it up to 12+ volts (new),
but you should not go much below 9 volts when radio is powered on.
As pulling it lower can damage the Lipo battery, so I set the radio alarm to about 10 to 9.5 volts.

All or most batteries last longer maintaining a higher voltage.


Off Subject Note: I see when a new post has been poster some words or a group
of words are being linking to an advertising link, by itself like Lipo battery or radio alarm.
Should this be happening and is this happening to others ?

bob195558 wrote: And with a 3S Lipo 2500mah battery you can charge it up to 12+ volts (new),
but you should not go much below 9 volts when radio is powered on.
As pulling it lower can damage the Lipo battery, so I set the radio alarm to about 10 to 9.5 volts.

I wouldn't do this if I were you. The radio takes very little current from a Lipo Battery, hence the voltage drop under load will be very small.
When the battery has a voltage of about 11.1V when not under load, it has only about 20% charge remaining. Normally we shouldn't go below that or we might shorten its life.
So, I would set the alarm to 11.1V, or even 11.2V
At 9.5V, your suggested alarm voltage, there isn't anymore energy in the battery, and the voltage will be dropping very fast, possibly leading to the battery being damaged and a premature shutdown of your radio.
Just my 2 cents..

bob195558 wrote: Off Subject Note: I see when a new post has been poster some words or a group
of words are being linking to an advertising link, by itself like Lipo battery or radio alarm.
Should this be happening and is this happening to others ?

Yes, it has happened to me, but I think it is not supposed to happen..

João

Sent from my BLN-L21 using Tapatalk

Well with the Taranis battery 1.1 per cell is low so 1.1x6=6.6 as my bare minimum voltage. I'll set it at 6.8 and call it. And yes I will remember to properly pin the thing.

But that is not a LiPo battery, it is a NiMh battery pack..
Still, you need to know what is the minimum voltage the Taranis accept. if it has low dropout regulators you are ok, if not, you might need 7V minimum. Also, you need to consider the minimum voltage from any external RF module you connect to the radio. if it is too low, your radio might continue to work, but the RF could stop working
Better to be on the safe side. I would go for 7V for some headroom in case you can't land so quickly.

I have modified one of my 9x radios with Ar9x board by replacing it's 5V regulators with low dropout ones. My radio still works fine at around 6.3V, but my RF module might not

João

Its a XJT module. Its what's in the Taranis... Ugh I might just keep the lipo in it and put the nimh battery in my old FM Futaba I still use for servo checks etc...

I don't know why, but I find a NiMh battery more adequate for a TX than a LiPo battery. Perhaps because I would never charge a LiPo battery while in the radio..But I would charge a NiMh without any problems..

João

Edit, nevermind was a bad cable after all... go figure. Just worked this afternoon...

Just wanted to say thanks for the help and thanks again to Kilrah for hooking me up with the board. Thing is awesome and I've been messing with it nonstop. Love having voice and all the other bells/whistles. Might look at adding haptic at some point but for now its more than enough.

Charge port works too with the NIMH battery which is really cool to have that again. I wound up returning the Taranis battery when I realized Maxxpacks also sells a 9x specific 9.6v battery so that's in there now.

To get a little more volume and better sound out of the speaker I trimmed the plastic out of the speaker "grille" area so its got all 8 slots opened up and put a piece of foam behind the speaker to try to get rid of some of the hollowness which did help. Volume wise its noticeably louder just opening it up.

Using it with the DJT right now just to get the feel of it all because my Hobbyking package is taking its sweet time to get here with the XJT but that should be this week sometime. I did solder a wire to the unused pin5 area on the 9x back board that connects to the FRSky plugin on the 9Xtreme so when the XJT plugs in it'll connect direct to the smart port and I'll get telemetry without having to do any other mods.

If you need some more 9Xtreme info and some upgrade info, see here: (viewtopic.php?f=95&t=7182).

Yeah I've seen that thread and definitely gonna look at haptic and the M9 gimbals too eventually but this 9x has so little use the stock gimbals still feel really good so not messing with them for now. Still crazy to me how far radios have come... I still have my old Futaba 72mhz 6 channel Skysport and actually had to use it a few weekends ago and its just like... that was all we had in the late 90s when I started to fly... If I want to change throws on that radio I have to pop the back cover and use a small screwdriver to adjust each channel lol.

Lol that was how I started as well. Slysport4 I did implement one one more channel though.
Then I upgraded to a futaba FF6.

Nothing compared to any of my 9x radios, specially running the wonderful firmware "Er9x or Ersky9x ". Thanks to Mike and a few others, RC became so much better in the last couple years..

João

Sent from my BLN-L21 using Tapatalk

Yeah I've already been blown away by how much c**p I've been able to do with Ersky9x and I'm sure I'm just scratching the surface.

So as much fun as I had in the brief time with the 9Xtreme that I did... the Jumper T16 Pro Hall came out.

Of course, Jumper haven't done any firmware development on Tx modules, so haven't incurred costs for them. They haven't done any real development on the selection of hardware components (e.g. the display), while FrSky spent significant time testing displays to find one that was readable in sunlight.
ErskyTx is available for the T16.

Mike