Using a cheap ebay USBASP programmer
Using a cheap ebay USBASP programmer
I used this $4 shipped usbasp programmer from ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USBASP-USBISP-A ... 564571ffe4
Works fine. Avrdude gives the "sck warning" but it can be ignored. The flashing works just fine. The programmer is supplied with a 50cm flat cable which has female fittings on both ends. By cutting it in half you have cables for modding two transmitters.
I have the Hobbyking backlight fitted with BS170 mosfet. The BS170 is glued with CA on the side of the backlight connector. After taking the picture, the whole thing was covered with clear shrink wrap. It looks clean and the mosfet does not stick out. I cut a 10cm servo extension in half to use as the wire from BS170 to the motherboard. Now the backlight has a connector and is not directly soldered for ease of disassmbling.
The programming cable enters the battery bay from the left end of the battery area. There are two holes and I cut the rib off between them. The cable wraps neatly around the Hobbyking 1500mAh Li-Fe transmitter battery and the connector is just the right size to lock the battery in place and keep it from moving around.
Just a hint regarding the Li-Fe or Li-Po conversion: Many people have fried the voltage regulators of the radio by accidentally reversing the polarity when solderering a wrong type connector for the battery. The black servo connector type which comes with transmitter batteries plugs in the 9x just fine even if it looks totally different from the stock one. The pin spacing and pin size is the same. You cannot accidentally burn anything since it is the same which way you connect it. The radio has positive in the centre pin and negative in left and righ. (- + - ).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USBASP-USBISP-A ... 564571ffe4
Works fine. Avrdude gives the "sck warning" but it can be ignored. The flashing works just fine. The programmer is supplied with a 50cm flat cable which has female fittings on both ends. By cutting it in half you have cables for modding two transmitters.
I have the Hobbyking backlight fitted with BS170 mosfet. The BS170 is glued with CA on the side of the backlight connector. After taking the picture, the whole thing was covered with clear shrink wrap. It looks clean and the mosfet does not stick out. I cut a 10cm servo extension in half to use as the wire from BS170 to the motherboard. Now the backlight has a connector and is not directly soldered for ease of disassmbling.
The programming cable enters the battery bay from the left end of the battery area. There are two holes and I cut the rib off between them. The cable wraps neatly around the Hobbyking 1500mAh Li-Fe transmitter battery and the connector is just the right size to lock the battery in place and keep it from moving around.
Just a hint regarding the Li-Fe or Li-Po conversion: Many people have fried the voltage regulators of the radio by accidentally reversing the polarity when solderering a wrong type connector for the battery. The black servo connector type which comes with transmitter batteries plugs in the 9x just fine even if it looks totally different from the stock one. The pin spacing and pin size is the same. You cannot accidentally burn anything since it is the same which way you connect it. The radio has positive in the centre pin and negative in left and righ. (- + - ).
- wheelspinner20
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Re: My setup
Great pics, what do you use for those closeups??
no more quippy little latin phrases.! Its old
Re: My setup
Just a cheapo Canon Ixus 95. If you are after an affordable and decent camera, you cannot go much wrong with any Ixus. This forum crops the pictures in weird manner. It does not scale them.
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- Rob Thomson
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My setup
B12 wrote:Just a cheapo Canon Ixus 95. If you are after an affordable and decent camera, you cannot go much wrong with any Ixus. This forum crops the pictures in weird manner. It does not scale them.
I think the issue is then image is being linked to - rather than uploaded.
I will get a 'hack' in to sort this out in the next few weeks!
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- GrootWitbaas
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My setup
And this was caused by RCG forum where you could not post the attached picture inline.... Well you could but not easily. Uploading the image in the forum is imho better than linking outside.
General trouble maker and wannabee Dev
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My setup
I have a fix... Should be in later today!GrootWitbaas wrote:And this was caused by RCG forum where you could not post the attached picture inline.... Well you could but not easily. Uploading the image in the forum is imho better than linking outside.
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Slope Soaring, FPV, and pretty much anything 'high tech'
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- Crashmaster3939
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Re: My setup
I am a rookie and I have purchased the exact same programmer with gray wire double ended lead from ebay. What I need is step by step pics or video on connections needed and pinouts for the connecter. I found the excellent step-by-step video from the Czech guy, but he has color coded wires and his connector is reversed, so I can not figure out which end/color on his is equivalent to my one red wire.
Your excellent picture would almost be enough if I could just see more to the right, and see the end of your connector to verify that it is the same as mine.
THANKS for any help you can give me. Crashmaster
Your excellent picture would almost be enough if I could just see more to the right, and see the end of your connector to verify that it is the same as mine.
THANKS for any help you can give me. Crashmaster
Greg
Re: My setup
This way you see the whole picture. There seems to be a limit of 800.600 for max size of uploaded pictures.Scott Page wrote:To see the entire photo right click on the image and choose to open in new tab or open in new window.
Red wire is the wire number one on the ebay programmer.
Re: My setup
Hi All
I have exactly this setup.
To do the install I watched the excellent video posted here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Yv2rCxfjSk
This uses a different cable but the connections and individual wires are exactly the same numbers and with a little double checking the connections are the same. With a small soldering iron the job was straight forward.
I used an XP laptop and with the correct drivers loaded every thing worked 1st time.
I have exactly this setup.
To do the install I watched the excellent video posted here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Yv2rCxfjSk
This uses a different cable but the connections and individual wires are exactly the same numbers and with a little double checking the connections are the same. With a small soldering iron the job was straight forward.
I used an XP laptop and with the correct drivers loaded every thing worked 1st time.
- cre8tiveleo
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Re: My setup
I just used the TH9x instructions, I have a V2 board, so I used the v2 pad for SCK.
http://code.google.com/p/th9x/wiki/installation_de
http://code.google.com/p/th9x/wiki/installation_de
Crashmaster3939 wrote:I am a rookie and I have purchased the exact same programmer with gray wire double ended lead from ebay. What I need is step by step pics or video on connections needed and pinouts for the connecter. I found the excellent step-by-step video from the Czech guy, but he has color coded wires and his connector is reversed, so I can not figure out which end/color on his is equivalent to my one red wire.
Your excellent picture would almost be enough if I could just see more to the right, and see the end of your connector to verify that it is the same as mine.
THANKS for any help you can give me. Crashmaster
- Crashmaster3939
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Re: My setup
Please clarify for me. My ebay programmer has just one marked pinkish wire, like yours. Do you know how that pink wire corresponds to the Czech guy's how-to video? ( I'm not sure if you have ever seen the video I'm talking about, but he has a rainbow multicolored cable)B12 wrote:Scott Page wrote:
Red wire is the wire number one on the ebay programmer.
Is there a differenent video or directions on where to solder each wire that does not refer to the rainbow colored cable? What reference did you use to make your connections?
Thanks a lot
Greg
Re: My setup
The red/pinkish (like zig zag) wire in the ebay programmer is the wire number one. The wire next to it in the flat cable is wire number two and so on.Crashmaster3939 wrote:Please clarify for me. My ebay programmer has just one marked pinkish wire, like yours. Do you know how that pink wire corresponds to the Czech guy's how-to video? ( I'm not sure if you have ever seen the video I'm talking about, but he has a rainbow multicolored cable)B12 wrote:Scott Page wrote:
Red wire is the wire number one on the ebay programmer.
Is there a differenent video or directions on where to solder each wire that does not refer to the rainbow colored cable? What reference did you use to make your connections?
Thanks a lot
The finnish text says "pin order on programming card". Please note that the right wires wires are not connected to the right pins since he used different connector on the radio The pins are clearly numbered and named so you should have it easy to figure out which wire goes to which pad. If not, please re-study. It does not get any clearer than this.
Last edited by B12 on Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: My setup
Yes, that picture is actually from my transmitter which B12 just included post above.
Only thing, when you make this wiring harness, is to keep in mind that which signal from programming card goes to which contact point on transmitter board. Everything else you can deside by yourself how you want to do that. For example that picture above where I used 9-pin male D-SUB connector to connect programming card to my transmitter. The order of the pins doesn't matter. As I said, only thing is that right signal goes to the right contact point inside of your transmitter. That's why you only need to know which pin at your programming card is which signal and where is the pad for that signal in transmitter cicruit board (picture above).
Firstly I had that 9pin male d-sub connector at the bottom of my transmitter but yesterday I changed that to inside of the battery compartment because I wanted to be sure that it won't get short circuited or anything else at the field. I also changed male to female connector so the connection pins are not so exposed as male version has.
But because battery compartment is on another half of transmitter case than the circuit board I made a connector terminals inside of the transmitter. So, it gives me possibility to separate both halfes from each another if needed. I used two 3-wire lipo balancer leads and connectors to do that because I didn't have anything else at my hand yesterday.
Here are some pictures from my old and this new setup. Just updated the newest build of er9x and everything works just fine.
Only thing, when you make this wiring harness, is to keep in mind that which signal from programming card goes to which contact point on transmitter board. Everything else you can deside by yourself how you want to do that. For example that picture above where I used 9-pin male D-SUB connector to connect programming card to my transmitter. The order of the pins doesn't matter. As I said, only thing is that right signal goes to the right contact point inside of your transmitter. That's why you only need to know which pin at your programming card is which signal and where is the pad for that signal in transmitter cicruit board (picture above).
Firstly I had that 9pin male d-sub connector at the bottom of my transmitter but yesterday I changed that to inside of the battery compartment because I wanted to be sure that it won't get short circuited or anything else at the field. I also changed male to female connector so the connection pins are not so exposed as male version has.
But because battery compartment is on another half of transmitter case than the circuit board I made a connector terminals inside of the transmitter. So, it gives me possibility to separate both halfes from each another if needed. I used two 3-wire lipo balancer leads and connectors to do that because I didn't have anything else at my hand yesterday.
Here are some pictures from my old and this new setup. Just updated the newest build of er9x and everything works just fine.
- Attachments
Last edited by Spoogy on Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:56 pm, edited 3 times in total.
What goes up, must come down. -Isaac Newton
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OpenTX - expanding possibilities
Re: My setup
And here are some more photos of my (current) setup...
- Attachments
What goes up, must come down. -Isaac Newton
OpenTX - expanding possibilities
OpenTX - expanding possibilities
Re: My setup
In the spirit of open source I just stole your pictureSpoogy wrote:Yes, that picture is actually from my transmitter which B12 just included post above.
Actually it is very good one because it has the pads not just named but also numbered. Very convenient with the flat cable. In my setup it would have been actually easier to use some other ground wire than number four. Now it crosses other wires.
Re: Using a cheap ebay USBASP programmer
This is how I resolved my programming connector.
The external SubD (female) connector is mounted in the front half of the housing.
No problems to separate the two halfs of the Tx.
No problems with dirt as it is on the side of the housing
No problems with shorting or breaking pins as it's a female connector
Reinhard
The external SubD (female) connector is mounted in the front half of the housing.
No problems to separate the two halfs of the Tx.
No problems with dirt as it is on the side of the housing
No problems with shorting or breaking pins as it's a female connector
Reinhard
Re: My setup
That spirit is strong in me... (with the darth wader voice) ...You're welcome, I don't mind..B12 wrote:In the spirit of open source I just stole your pictureSpoogy wrote:Yes, that picture is actually from my transmitter which B12 just included post above.
What goes up, must come down. -Isaac Newton
OpenTX - expanding possibilities
OpenTX - expanding possibilities
Re: Using a cheap ebay USBASP programmer
Looks nice and clean, but personally.... I don't like that location (I was considering that also). Too visible for my eyes (And it's under your hand when you fly). But that's just my opinion...ReSt wrote:This is how I resolved my programming connector.
The external SubD (female) connector is mounted in the front half of the housing.
No problems to separate the two halfs of the Tx.
No problems with dirt as it is on the side of the housing
No problems with shorting or breaking pins as it's a female connector
Reinhard
What goes up, must come down. -Isaac Newton
OpenTX - expanding possibilities
OpenTX - expanding possibilities
Re: Using a cheap ebay USBASP programmer
Visible, yes but that doesn't bother me. You could put some kind of cover over it.Looks nice and clean, but personally.... I don't like that location (I was considering that also). Too visible for my eyes (And it's under your hand when you fly). But that's just my opinion...
Under my hand.... True, but as it is flat, I don't really notice it
Reinhard
Re: Using a cheap ebay USBASP programmer
This is my update:
http://rc.emiter.hu/ (MegaSound 9X, GCL-2, FrSky-RSSI-DAC, etc.) Keress fel!
Re: Using a cheap ebay USBASP programmer
Hi HC,HC1969 wrote:This is my update:
I would like to see how you connected the FrSky module to the antenna on the top of the radio.
A photo with the back cover off will be great.
Regards,
KC
Professional Tinkerer
- Rob Thomson
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Re: Using a cheap ebay USBASP programmer
I suggest you open a new thread for this as it is gradually going off topic (the cheap usb programmer)
Slope Soaring, FPV, and pretty much anything 'high tech'
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