S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
Audio is perfectly clean and the lcd doesn't bleed anymore.
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
I don't hear anymore the bzzz from the internal module in the speaker
Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
Does this mean an improved LCD?Kilrah wrote:Audio is perfectly clean and the lcd doesn't bleed anymore.
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Please, please, let it be available SOON as parts!!!
mnem
w00t!
Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
Yes, new lcd.
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- MikeB
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
As the new LCD has both WHITE and BLUE backlights, it has extra mounting connections to the main board so doesn't fit on the existing main board.
Mike.
Mike.
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
So to have new LCD we would have to buy new main board. It starts getting a bit expensive to upgrade the taranis. Better buy the plus when it comes out.
Hhhmmmm, good business move from frsky
João
Hhhmmmm, good business move from frsky
João
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
Unless you simply replace only the panel.
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
2.0.8 is out and pots with detent are on... Thank you, everyone. This was fast, indeed. No reason to even think about Futaba and so on with their slow reaction speed. Great work!!!
KDS Innova 600 (VBar), Tarot 960 Hexa (aerials), Taranis X9D (rev.B)
Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
Another question: how to make it to speak out the the chosen model name? Thank you
KDS Innova 600 (VBar), Tarot 960 Hexa (aerials), Taranis X9D (rev.B)
Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
Kilrah -Kilrah wrote:Unless you simply replace only the panel.
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Have you actually taken it apart? Does the backlight assemble the same way; LED panels in the same location, only extra connections for the extra set of LEDs? I can dang sure put a switch inside or a set of jumpers in the battery box to select BL color.
mnem
*Punt!*
Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
The panel is attached to the backlight assembly with 2 narrow strips of double sided tape, I posted photos somewhere. Remove panel from existing assembly, stick new panel, done.
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
But can the old mainboard switch between the 2 colors? Or do you really need the new plus mainboard for that?
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
New mainboard with new backlight assembly.
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
Exactly.. so if you really want 2 colors you have to buy another main board. And for that is better to buy a plus instead. Good marketing tricks, eh?
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
I don't imagine anybody could want 2 colors so bad as to replace their radio... mnem just wants the better lcd and was trying to understand how to change it.
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
But the lcd is also different, right? Or can it connect to the old board? I know that there are differences..
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- MikeB
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
The lcd is different. It will connect to the old board, but the controller on the new lcd is different, so the firmware would need to be different, and not the PLUS firmware as the hardware connections hae changed on the main board.
Mike.
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erskyTx/er9x developer
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
Correct, forgot that detail. When we had the old LCD on the Plus board it was before the driver was adapted to the new controller.
So yes, in summary if you want the new LCD you'll also need to replace both the main and back boards, basically upgrade to a Plus.
So yes, in summary if you want the new LCD you'll also need to replace both the main and back boards, basically upgrade to a Plus.
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
You need to make a Special Function like....Datosal wrote:Another question: how to make it to speak out the the chosen model name? Thank you
SFx One Play Track ModelName No repeat.
ModelNam must be 8 characters or less and ModelNam.wav must be in SD/SOUNDS/language/
Dean
OldDmbThms: 1. Takeoff, 2. Crash, 3. Repair, GOTO 1
OldDmbThms: 1. Takeoff, 2. Crash, 3. Repair, GOTO 1
Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
that's what I meant..before frsky was saying that you could upgrade your current taranis to a plus.. of course you can... by buying a new radio, or spend twice the money to buy the new main board and back board.. either way you have to buy a new radio..very clever business people. You buy the radio twice if you want all the features. Not very cheap, is it? what else??Kilrah wrote: So yes, in summary if you want the new LCD you'll also need to replace both the main and back boards, basically upgrade to a Plus.
I hope I will have to buy only 1 Horus, and not two when it comes out..
João
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
Ugggh.Kilrah wrote:Correct, forgot that detail. When we had the old LCD on the Plus board it was before the driver was adapted to the new controller.
So yes, in summary if you want the new LCD you'll also need to replace both the main and back boards, basically upgrade to a Plus.
Is there any chance of a branch of the firmware with drivers that supports the new LCD on the Non-Plus board? This is starting to sound a lot like the Intel/Windows ecosystem. "Yeah, sure it'll plug in. But the OS doesn't support it."
I'm beginning to think I need to just send my new baby back while I still can and wait for the PLUS to be released...
Whom do I need to ask for clarification on this? It's a BIG deal, actually...
*Hopeful*
mnem
"The Devil is in the details."
Re: Re : S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
The big difference with the Windows ecosystem is that here the code is open source and anybody who wants something can do it himself.
I doubt an "official" branch for the Plus LCD on the old board will be done by the core team, there are so many other things to do and it's not like the old LCD doesn't work.
For jhsa, based on the current spare part prices a set of boards and lcd should be about half the price of the full radio.
But unlike you are one who always wants the latest and greatest there isn't much point in upgrading everything. And usually those aren't very afraid of a $200 price for a whole new device...
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I doubt an "official" branch for the Plus LCD on the old board will be done by the core team, there are so many other things to do and it's not like the old LCD doesn't work.
For jhsa, based on the current spare part prices a set of boards and lcd should be about half the price of the full radio.
But unlike you are one who always wants the latest and greatest there isn't much point in upgrading everything. And usually those aren't very afraid of a $200 price for a whole new device...
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
This was exactly my estimation of the situation.
While those who've enjoyed the platform for over a year might find the idea of upgrading to the latest model at that cost appealing, as someone who JUST days ago bought the "Old Model" I'm less than pleased to find that my new $200 TX will very soon be a $300 TX with "spares".
mnem
Just my luck...
While those who've enjoyed the platform for over a year might find the idea of upgrading to the latest model at that cost appealing, as someone who JUST days ago bought the "Old Model" I'm less than pleased to find that my new $200 TX will very soon be a $300 TX with "spares".
mnem
Just my luck...
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
The changes to support the new LCD on the old hardware are not very great. It shouldn't be very difficult to make it a compile option. The biggest problem may well be testing it as no one actually has a new LCD available on the old hardware.
Mike.
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
Mike -
This makes me hopeful; I've sent a very detailed, polite letter to Aloft asking what knowledge re: the "Official Upgrade Path" they might be able to lay on me and what options I have at this point.
I wouldn't mind being the test animal for this, but as you say... the question is now one of the parts. If and when they'll be available, and at what price. Of course, the balance of the equation is how much the "Plus" will cost. It may cost considerably more than the current version; in which case, the decision just gets more complicated.
*wibble*
mnem
*Eeep*
This makes me hopeful; I've sent a very detailed, polite letter to Aloft asking what knowledge re: the "Official Upgrade Path" they might be able to lay on me and what options I have at this point.
I wouldn't mind being the test animal for this, but as you say... the question is now one of the parts. If and when they'll be available, and at what price. Of course, the balance of the equation is how much the "Plus" will cost. It may cost considerably more than the current version; in which case, the decision just gets more complicated.
*wibble*
mnem
*Eeep*
Re: Re : S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
Or you can just use your "old model" that works perfectly well and doesn't do much less as it is, like a few dozens of thousands of people do.mnementh wrote:as someone who JUST days ago bought the "Old Model" I'm less than pleased to find that my new $200 TX will very soon be a $300 TX with "spares".
It's not like the old model suddenly became useless because a new one that you HAVE to have is out.
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
Come on dude; you know that's not it. I'm talking about fixing a known fault in the unit, not wanting a free upgrade to the new model. I could live with spending $30-40 for the parts to fix the LCD fault "sometime soon" and live with the weak display until then.
Right now it's looking like essentially I (and all the other users who bought it based on the assurance they could easily upgrade to the parts in PLUS model when it came out) will be stuck going the Full Monty and gutting their TX to fix a weak LCD that never should have gotten past pre-production*. That's a different kettle of crunk entirely.
Right now it's a matter of what the "Official Word" is.
mnem
*EDIT
Right now it's looking like essentially I (and all the other users who bought it based on the assurance they could easily upgrade to the parts in PLUS model when it came out) will be stuck going the Full Monty and gutting their TX to fix a weak LCD that never should have gotten past pre-production*. That's a different kettle of crunk entirely.
Right now it's a matter of what the "Official Word" is.
mnem
*EDIT
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
Does your LCD work?
If you did not have the next upgrade radio as an option - would you be complaining?
The existing LCD while not perfect - is absolutely fine for 99.99% of peoples needs. It is not 100% perfect - but you have a radio made to a price. A bloody good radio too!
My feeling is that you are upset because this is something you 'want'. Just like a mobile phone upgrade. If the upgrade where to be release in 12 months time - I doubt your would bat an eyelid or raise a complaint.
If you did not have the next upgrade radio as an option - would you be complaining?
The existing LCD while not perfect - is absolutely fine for 99.99% of peoples needs. It is not 100% perfect - but you have a radio made to a price. A bloody good radio too!
My feeling is that you are upset because this is something you 'want'. Just like a mobile phone upgrade. If the upgrade where to be release in 12 months time - I doubt your would bat an eyelid or raise a complaint.
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Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
I'm with Rob on this - what exactly is wrong with the LCD currently?
This is a transmitter and it gives you all the information you need to use it in a perfectly usable format. OK, so it isn't multicoloured but it is there. Frankly, I don't give a damn what colour/s the display is capable of - I simply want a radio I can programme to get the best from my models, safely and easily. The Taranis does that for me - and at a price that I'm very happy with!
Richard
This is a transmitter and it gives you all the information you need to use it in a perfectly usable format. OK, so it isn't multicoloured but it is there. Frankly, I don't give a damn what colour/s the display is capable of - I simply want a radio I can programme to get the best from my models, safely and easily. The Taranis does that for me - and at a price that I'm very happy with!
Richard
Re: S1 pot doesn't center to "0"
I disagree; and I have commercial electronics engineering experience.
If that display had gotten past preproduction in my shop I'd have lost my job. And clearly I'm not the only one feels the LCD is substandard; otherwise this issue wouldn't be the cornerstone of the next major upgrade. I couldn't care less about it being monochrome; I care about poor contrast and bleeding bitmaps. Please stop telling me I don't have anything to be unhappy with; I know better and so does FRSky.
The reason these displays suck bunge is because they're trying to use super-cheap LCDs with a reflective (designed for ambient light only) polarizing backing and make them serve as a more expensive transflective (ambient light and backlit) LCD by putting a cobbled-together LED illuminated backlight behind them, rather than starting out with a merely cheap LCD designed for transflective use that has higher native contrast and a more expensive multilayer polarizing filter. I know this because I've done the R&D and LCD selection myself in a commercial setting, and I learned better from hard experience.
We put up with a poor quality LCD in the 9X; even sought out ways to fix it ourselves because it was a $50 TX. The same logic does not apply to a $200 TX, no matter what obscenely high prices other name brands charge. I expect the fundamentals to be right.
Maybe $200 isn't much to spend on a TX to you, but for me, it is. I WANT to love this TX as much as you guys. Otherwise, I might as well just buy a DX6.
This is why I went back and deleted the inflammatory content in my related post in the 9XrPro Hacks thread; it was not a matter of the point being invalid, it was because I was very angry when I posted it and I was downright rude & nasty.
I'm going to wait until I get some official answer from the folks at Aloft. Until then, hashing this out again for the umpteenth time will probably only result in folks getting angry and rude & nasty, just like I did. I don't want to be that person. Again.
mnem
*Namaste*
If that display had gotten past preproduction in my shop I'd have lost my job. And clearly I'm not the only one feels the LCD is substandard; otherwise this issue wouldn't be the cornerstone of the next major upgrade. I couldn't care less about it being monochrome; I care about poor contrast and bleeding bitmaps. Please stop telling me I don't have anything to be unhappy with; I know better and so does FRSky.
The reason these displays suck bunge is because they're trying to use super-cheap LCDs with a reflective (designed for ambient light only) polarizing backing and make them serve as a more expensive transflective (ambient light and backlit) LCD by putting a cobbled-together LED illuminated backlight behind them, rather than starting out with a merely cheap LCD designed for transflective use that has higher native contrast and a more expensive multilayer polarizing filter. I know this because I've done the R&D and LCD selection myself in a commercial setting, and I learned better from hard experience.
We put up with a poor quality LCD in the 9X; even sought out ways to fix it ourselves because it was a $50 TX. The same logic does not apply to a $200 TX, no matter what obscenely high prices other name brands charge. I expect the fundamentals to be right.
Maybe $200 isn't much to spend on a TX to you, but for me, it is. I WANT to love this TX as much as you guys. Otherwise, I might as well just buy a DX6.
This is why I went back and deleted the inflammatory content in my related post in the 9XrPro Hacks thread; it was not a matter of the point being invalid, it was because I was very angry when I posted it and I was downright rude & nasty.
I'm going to wait until I get some official answer from the folks at Aloft. Until then, hashing this out again for the umpteenth time will probably only result in folks getting angry and rude & nasty, just like I did. I don't want to be that person. Again.
mnem
*Namaste*