openrcforums

Well it's late at night, and I will have a stab at your question,,,the chip quick method is new to me, I've being in the electronic industry since 1981. Soldering has one main point,,,HEAT Transfer to get the job done. As long as you can get the heat to flow the solder you should be good. Now, with an IC with 50 or 100+ pins and the the chip quick method, I have seen it in video but never in person, and I have a bit of concern (but not a show stopper, until I try it), getting a 100+ pin solder molten long enough on all side to remove the whole chip is new to me (unless by hot air). And I would think takes quite a bit of heat (minimum 75 watt, more like 100+ watt iron), BUT, maybe this new chip quick some how retains the heat long enough to keep all four sides solder liquid long enough to remove the chip, if so , totally cool and in the short run a lower cost. Since I have been around removing and replacing IC's for 3+ decades, the SMD hot air system is my choice, it can he had for ~$70 on ebay. I can change a 100 pin chip in under 1 minute. I look forward to others experience with chip quick, please provide feedback on chip quick experience.

Ozzy, FWIW I briefly explained how Chip Quick works in this post. You don't need a high power soldering iron, the Sn-Bi solder does retain heat long enough and has a very low solidus temp which gives the operator time to remove the chip.

Guys, I'm preparing myself to replace the first atmega 128 with a second one. I think I might have killed the first somehow, so I don't want to take any chances and made myself a wrist strap.. here are a couple pictures.
I used some velcro and aluminium foil that comes already with glue on one side..
As I'm grounding myself to the mains earth connection, I used a 1 Mega ohm series resistor at the aligator connector.. would that work?

Thanks,

João

That should work fine. Is your soldering iron metal casing/bit also earthed?

I would also suggest some aluminium foil (Earthed) to work on and place tools and solder on.

The humidity levels around Germany seem ideal at this time to do static sensitive work.. Best of luck.

I bought a wrist strap that has a 1 meg ohm resistor in it. It works just fine.
-Gohst

Yeah, just checked, soldering iron's tip is earthed..
Will follow advice and make a piece of cardboard with aluminium glued on it. then will also ground it through a 1 Mega Ohm resistor to the mains earth connection.. will then place all the tools, as well as the main board on it while working..

Must remember to remove the aluminium before powering the board

The chips I ordered this time come inside a plastic box with an anti-static warning sticker on it..

João

Good luck João! Keep us updated, hopefully it just works for you this time.

Thanks.. I'll try it tomorrow..
Thank you all..

João

Ok, I hope that this will help avoiding static

Looks good.. Don't forget the earthed aluminium foil hat to keep brain static away from it all..

Now just go for it... Unsolder that old M128. Use the higher temperature that worked for you last time, along with the biggest tip that you have.

That's the thing, found a bigger flat tip.. so probably around 250ºC will work.. will see. if the solder doesn't mix and looks like a blob, then maybe increase the temperature a little...
No danger of brain static due to brain absence

Hi All,
I removed Atmega with this tool made from wire. Not so nice method like ChipQuick, but works.

Does anyone tried to place Atmega128A instead of Atmega128-16AU.
I placed it to 9XR and I have some problems with UP/LEFT/DOWN/RIGHT buttons. They often reboots radio.
I had to solve this by placing 1k resistor in series with these switches.

Martin

I put a '128A into mine, it works fine. I put mine on a 9x v2 board.
-Gohst

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2

weird problem... Well, at least you made it work.... :S

@mhotar - clever! Wondering; did you set up current controller on that bare copper wire?

@jhsa - 250degC is probably too low to reach liquidus on the solder currently holding down your 128. You need to reach liquidus of both Sn-Bi (Chip Quick) solder and Sn-Pb (or SAC if lead free) so the Sn-Bi can blend and lower the solidus of the amalgam down to 140degC or less. I'd recommend starting at 290degC, and apply heat only until Sn-Pb is liquid, melt in the Sn-Bi and move the heat along to the next pins...
I really hope it works for you this time - I think you'll be an expert soon!

I just want to make it work..

I have not tried chip quick, I use hot air rework station, I can remove and replace a chip in 1 minute (any type besides BGA, chip quick can not do QFN and some others), and another minute to clean the flux off. Also there is nothing consumable, so you can do as many chips as you want. Of course it costs more up front. I am not trying to derail this thread, just offering another solution.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Hot-Ai ... 2572929a09

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMD-Digital-Hot ... 43b702fd7c

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8508D-Digital-H ... 460608427c

I'd have already purchased one of those if I could find one for 240V in the same price range. Never did so far

I've got a temperature and speed controlled hot air gun with a rather fine tip that already does a good work, but of course still not as good.

Kilrah, did you try ebay.de? Search 'heißluft lötstation'. They go for about EUR60 shipped.

Oh yeah, for some reason they don't appear on ebay.com... I'll have a look, thanks!

I bought this last year and so far it's been good. I use the iron a lot and just getting into what I can do with the heat wand and tips. I have some bad SMD with Cpu's boards to practice on now.
It does work well for heat shrink tubing in small areas.
I could use some hot air soldering/desoldering how to's.
SM
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem ... 0571221985


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk.

I just had a reason to replace the STM32F205 on a Taranis(+) board. Same size as the AtMEGAs, but 100 instead of 64 pins!
I decided to go the chipquick route for this, worked fine, just needed to keep the chipquick hot all round for a while to get the solder to melt properly, but the dead chip came off well, and the pads all cleaned up fine.
New chip safely soldered in and all working!

I have to say another thank you to those who provided me with the stereo microscope. I don't think I would have tried the soldering back in without it. Those pins are on a VERY fine spacing.

Mike.

I bought one after reading about yours. I used it last week to rework my favorite Casio solar watch setting pin. The plastic had cracked and the pin fell out. Some CA on the pin head as an applicator and I was good to go.
The pin angle had to be spot on.
Oh, I've also repaired selected 9x boards for botched jobs.
Brent uses a head magnifier but he's got younger eyes.



Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk, small keys and a big finger.

Hot air rework stations are now $25
https://www.ebay.com/itm/858D-700W-Sold ... rk:31:pf:0

Cool, I still prefer chipquik, specially if I don't want the components damaged, or to blow other SMD components off the board by using the hot air

João

Something is wrong if your "blowing" other components off the board. I work with 28GHz data signals, we use 0201, 01005 and 008004 size parts (tiny mofo's) and they do not blow away when swapping the part next to them. Maybe turn the after burner off?

With my Aoyue INT 968A+ Soldering Station,
I have different size Hot Air Gun nozzles
and I can adjust the hot air flow and heat.
You may want to adjust these features on a junk board
before using it on the board you are repairing.

See here for some more info about replacing chips: (https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopi ... 120#p74105).

Still find chip quik way better and faster. and less chances of damaging the components, as the melting point is very low..

João

Because of your lack of experience.

Witch if fine, we were just pointing out a alternative (and better imo) way. Believe me, been doing this since 1982, probably less than 1% of the electronics repair use chip quick method. Takes too long, costs too much (plus solder braid to wick up the mess), more mechanical stress.

There is more than one way to skin a cat, and quick chip is an option, initially it is less cost, witch is possibly its only benefit.

I use Chip Quick for those difficult soldering jobs like chip replacement.
The Chip Quick flux helps a lot too, its really good flux.