FrskyRX_USB dongle
FrskyRX_USB dongle
Hi guys, Here is another Killer project from Midelic, and here is the link to his original thread.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthr ... st36600398
He also developed a few frsky compatible receivers that work really well.. Banggood has apparently produced receivers based on his open project and is selling them. Latest version of his code supports antenna diversity and also has no swamping at all, even if you place the tx and rx antennas as close as 3 centimeters Here is the link to the project thread in case you want to check it out.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthr ... RX-Modules
Ok, here I will show how I have built my "Frsky (Compatible) RX USB Dongle", based on Midelic's project. Here is a little video of it working.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MFyIVjvwhw
This project is based on an ATmega8 microcontroller and a CC2500 low power RF module. I have built my own PCB and used a surface mount version of the chip. It is possible to build this with a much bigger DIP version of the m8 chip and build it on a piece of StripBoard. The only difficult thing will still be to solder the thin wires to the CC2500 RF module. I might build one just to show you how to, but first I will show you how I have built my first one
Here is the Schematic I used and a couple pictures of my dongle.
I have measured the voltage drop after the two diodes (D1 and D2), and I found it to be a bit too high for my liking. So I have decided to solder another diode in series with them. As stated on the picture above, I used an BAT42W. The reason for this is that the maximum voltage the CC2500 RF Module can handle is about 3.6V. ANYTHING ABOVE THAT WILL VERY LIKELY DESTROY IT.
Midelic said that his setup with only the two diodes is delivering 3.5V, so it is fine. He said that I probably measured the voltage before I soldered the Atmega chip to the board. I don't remember if I did it or not. So, measure the voltage of your setup BEFORE you solder the CC2500 RF module to the PCB. If it is over 3.5V, solder the extra diode in series with the other two. watch the polarity of the diodes.
The servo cable you see on the pictures below was just to power the dongle while binding it when helping Midelic testing the dongle. Not needed.. You can also see here how I soldered the extra diode (BAT42W). If you also solder one make sure you solder it with the same orientation (polarization) as the other two diodes. As you can see on this picture, the PCB is too thin to be used as an USB connector so I glued a piece of thick plastic on the back to make it thicker.
You don't need to install the resistor R1, but it doesn't hurt if you decide to do it.. Not needed though.
The jumper is needed to flash the firmware over USB using the bootloader. So, what do you need?
First you need to get yourself one of these PCBs. Either make one yourself, or send the file to some online PCB maker. I know nothing about it because I have never used this kind of service. I enjoy making my own PCBs. I know they do not look very professional, but they don't have to The layout is on the PDF file below and the Eagle Files inside the ZIP .. I don't know if you can use them online, as I said I never used any PCB online service A little note about the Eagle files.. They are a mess
I attempted to create the CC2500 RF module in Eagle, and I thought I did it successfully. But the pins/pads look very large and touch each other I had to edit them on Inkscape.. If someone knows how to correct that in eagle I would appreciate it
You also need:
IC1 - ATMega AVR 8-16 AU. Package - TQFP-32
Y1 - 16Mhz Resonator. CSTCE16M0V53-RO Ceramic Crystal SMD 16MHZ
I bought mine from here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331986072860?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
CC2500 RF module - I bought mine from here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351848912251?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
D1, D2 - 1N4148 (Normal small through hole diodes)
LED1 - Chose your favorite color Package size is 0805
Extra Schottky Diode (Optional, See text) - I used a BAT42W. But you can use any small Schottky Diode that can handle about 200mA. A bit less is also OK as this receiver doesn't use much current.
C1 - 10uF/16V (or more), package size 0805
C2 - 100nF, package size 0805
R1 - 10K Through hole resistor. (Optional)
R2 - 470 Ohm, package size 0805
R3, R4 - 68 Ohm, package size 0805
R5 - 1K5, package size 0805
BIND - Tactile Push Button Switch 6 X 6 X 9.5mm (search on ebay)
JP1_FlASH - I used a 2 pin 2.54mm female pin header. This is used only if you install the bootloader and want to flash the firmware through this USB Bootloader. If you don't flash the bootloader, and just flash the firmware using the ISP programmer, you don't need this jumper.
A piece of thick plastic - to glue on the back of the USB connector on the PCB. It makes it a bit thicker so it allows for a good connection to the PC's USB socket (See Pictures above).
3.3V ISP Programmer - For example a UsbAsp programmer used to flash the 9x radio. Some are able to deliver 3.3V and some don't. You must use one that is able to output 3.3V logic levels. Normally the ones that can do it, have a shunt/jumper that allows to change between 3.3V and 5V. THIS IS IMPORTANT.
My favorite is a mySmartUSB Light. And we can change between 5V and 3.3V using a utility on the computer.
If you don't have a programmer that is capable of 3.3V or you are not sure if yours can do it, there is an alternative. Flash the Bootloader, or firmware BEFORE you solder the CC2500 RF module in place. This is very important.
http://shop.myavr.com/index.php?sp=arti ... tID=200006
Connect the Programmer
I believe the picture below pretty much explains it, so I'm not going into detail on how to solder some thin wires to the board For programming the fuses and flashing the bootloader, or flashing the firmware via ISP, use your favorite software. I used "AVR Studio 4".
IMPORTANT - Before you try to program fuses or flash something to the chip ALWAYS do a read first. For example, read the fuses. Only proceed to program something after you had a successful read. Otherwise you could brick the microcontroller. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.
Programming the Fuses
Once you did a successful read, proceed to program the following fuses to the Atmega8:
High = 0xc0
Low = 0x9f
Decision, Bootloader or not?
Now it is the right time to decide whether you want to flash the Bootloader first, or proceed to flash the firmware directly with the ISP Programmer.
If you flash the bootloader, you can remove the ISP programming wires you have just soldered and further receiver firmware updates can be installed using the USB connection to the PC.
If you flash the firmware without flashing the bootloader, and if you want to update the firmware when/if a new version is released, or if there is some problem, you will have to solder all the wires again to be able to flash the chip. But then again, you might never need to do it again,soooo... up to you really
I recommend to install the bootloader. Why? because of the reason explained above, and also because flashing the bootloader or the firmware via ISP need exactly the same procedure. Updating the firmware via USB using the bootloader is very easy.
Before proceeding please download and extract the following ZIP file.
You will find 3 files inside:
USB_bootloader.hex - The Bootloader
HIDBootFlash.exe - The utility used to flash the firmware over USB (I think this runs on windows only)
FrskyRx_USB.hex - The firmware file you will flash to the receiver. Flash this file using the ISP programmer if you decide not to flash the bootloader
Flashing the Bootloader
After successfully programming the fuses, and using your software of choice, flash the file "USB_bootloader.hex" to the chip. If all good, you can now remove the wires you've soldered to the board. They won't be needed anymore unless something went wrong.
Flashing the Firmware
Now connect the jumper to the board.
Next insert the board in your computer's USB port. Your device should appear in the device manager (See picture). Start the utility by double clicking the file "HIDBootFlash.exe"
Next click on "Find Device" If all is ok and your board was found, the "Open hex File" and "Flash Device" buttons will become available.
Click on "Open hex File", navigate to the firmware file you have just downloaded "FrskyRx_USB.hex" and click "Open".
Next click on "Flash Device" to flash the firmware to the receiver. You will see some numbers scrolling, and at the end the utility will display ":-) Finished flashing the device".
You're done flashing. Close the utility, disconnect the Dongle from the USB socket and remove the jumper plug/wire.
Bind the RX to your radio.
Bind the "FrskyRX_USB dongle" to your favorite FrSky RF Module, or to the Multiprotocol module if yours support the Frsky "D" Protocol. Here is how:
Plug your FrskyRX Dongle to an available USB socket on your PC while pressing the "BIND" button. The LED will turn ON. Release the button..
Turn your radio ON with the FrSky RF module in Bind mode. After some seconds, the LED should start blinking slowly. That means that Binding is completed. Disconnect the dongle and turn the radio OFF.
Now next time you power them together, the RX LED should be ON. If you turn the radio OFF or signal is lost, the LED will blink fast.
Done, go fly your favorite simulator wireless
StripBoard version of the Dongle using a through hole Atmega8
I understand that not everybody can do fine soldering, and make their own PCBs. So I have built another FrskyRX_Dongle using a much bigger through hole Atmega8 chip, Crystal, and all the other components. The only one that should need some fine soldering is the CC2500 module, if you use the same one as above . You could actually get a much bigger one that is for sure easier to solder. Still not StripBoard compatible though as the pin spacing is 2mm and the board hole spacing is 2.54mm. but much easier to handle. Please see this module:
http://www.banggood.com/CC2500-PA-LNA-R ... mds=search
It is a bit more expensive than the other though. This is the module that I use on my full range Frsky DIY compatible receivers. Another wonderful project from Midelic.
Here is the list of components:
All resistors are the smallest you can get.
R2 - 470R
R3, R4 - 68R
R5 - 1K5
C1 - 10uF / 10V or more. The smallest to can get. You can also place it on it's side on the board if you can't get a very small capacitor.
C2, C3 - 22pF
Cr1 - Crystal HC49/U-S 16Mhz
D1, D2 - 1N4148
D3 - BAT85 (I think that if you replace it with an 1N4148 is also ok)
LED - 3mm
JP1 - Female Pin header for connecting a jumper when flashing via USB using the bootloader.
IC Socket - 28 Pins (Better to use a socket instead of soldering the Atmega directly to the board. Avoids overheating the chip when soldering it, and it is easy to replace it if needed.. There are also 2 wires under the IC, the socket allows them to be placed there..
BIND BUTTON - Tactile Push Button Switch 6 X 6 X 9.5mm (search on ebay)
An old USB cable - Please see pinout.
Cut the StripBoard to the right size. Count the horizontal and vertical holes. Then cut the tracks as shown on the pictures. Now solder all the wires, resistors and diodes. Watch the diodes polarity. The stripe on their body indicates the cathode (K). Solder all the other components in place. If you couldn't find a small enough 10uF capacitor (C1), just place it on its side and solder it's legs to the right "+" and "-" holes, that means, watch its polarity. Electrolytic Capacitors can explode if soldered the wrong way.
Solder the IC socket, the push button, the jumper pin header, and the USB cable. DO NOT use the pictures of my board as reference to build yours because there are differences.. I have changed/improved the design after I built my prototype board
The next pictures are just for to you have an idea.. The placement of the wires and some components is different. DO NOT copy them. After you've soldered all components, it is time to connect your favorite programmer so you can program the fuses and flash the Bootloader to the chip.
This picture shows how to connect the ISP programmer to the board. After you did this, carefully insert the ATmega8 chip in the 28 pin IC socket. Be careful not to bend/damage any pin. You might have to bend all pins a little towards the center of the chip so it fits. To do it, place the chip on its side on a flat surface like a table (pins on the table) and holding the chip's body force it in the direction of the pins so they are square with the body. Repeat this with the other side's pins. Make sure you insert the chip in the socket the right way round. See pictures Now Connect your programmer to the chip and proceed to program the fuses and the bootloader. Please see above how to do it, it is exactly the same procedure as with the PCB version of the" FrskyRX Dongle".
DO NOT connect the USB cable to your PC at this point.
DO NOT forget to read the fuses before you program them to make sure all connections are good and the PC is seeing your chip
Once you've successfully flashed the bootloader, please remove the ISP programmer wires and flash the firmware via USB using the bootloader as explained above. From now on use this method to flash the firmware to the chip if there are other updates available, or if for some reason it stops working.. No more need for an ISP programmer, unless something goes really wrong.
The last step is to solder the RF module to the board. It is placed on the underside of the board.This is probably the only complicated step. Solder thin wires to the RF Module. Be careful not to create shorts between the module's pads. They are only 1.2mm from each other, very small Then solder the wires to the board as shown.
After soldering the module to the board, make sure you isolate it from the board to avoid shorts. I used some heat shrink tube. Test your dongle by binding it to your radio, and if all is working, protect it with some heat shrink tube/sleeve. Cut some holes for the LED and bind button. I did secure the USB cable to the board with hot glue before I heat shrinked it. Enjoy
João
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthr ... st36600398
He also developed a few frsky compatible receivers that work really well.. Banggood has apparently produced receivers based on his open project and is selling them. Latest version of his code supports antenna diversity and also has no swamping at all, even if you place the tx and rx antennas as close as 3 centimeters Here is the link to the project thread in case you want to check it out.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthr ... RX-Modules
Ok, here I will show how I have built my "Frsky (Compatible) RX USB Dongle", based on Midelic's project. Here is a little video of it working.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MFyIVjvwhw
This project is based on an ATmega8 microcontroller and a CC2500 low power RF module. I have built my own PCB and used a surface mount version of the chip. It is possible to build this with a much bigger DIP version of the m8 chip and build it on a piece of StripBoard. The only difficult thing will still be to solder the thin wires to the CC2500 RF module. I might build one just to show you how to, but first I will show you how I have built my first one
Here is the Schematic I used and a couple pictures of my dongle.
I have measured the voltage drop after the two diodes (D1 and D2), and I found it to be a bit too high for my liking. So I have decided to solder another diode in series with them. As stated on the picture above, I used an BAT42W. The reason for this is that the maximum voltage the CC2500 RF Module can handle is about 3.6V. ANYTHING ABOVE THAT WILL VERY LIKELY DESTROY IT.
Midelic said that his setup with only the two diodes is delivering 3.5V, so it is fine. He said that I probably measured the voltage before I soldered the Atmega chip to the board. I don't remember if I did it or not. So, measure the voltage of your setup BEFORE you solder the CC2500 RF module to the PCB. If it is over 3.5V, solder the extra diode in series with the other two. watch the polarity of the diodes.
The servo cable you see on the pictures below was just to power the dongle while binding it when helping Midelic testing the dongle. Not needed.. You can also see here how I soldered the extra diode (BAT42W). If you also solder one make sure you solder it with the same orientation (polarization) as the other two diodes. As you can see on this picture, the PCB is too thin to be used as an USB connector so I glued a piece of thick plastic on the back to make it thicker.
You don't need to install the resistor R1, but it doesn't hurt if you decide to do it.. Not needed though.
The jumper is needed to flash the firmware over USB using the bootloader. So, what do you need?
First you need to get yourself one of these PCBs. Either make one yourself, or send the file to some online PCB maker. I know nothing about it because I have never used this kind of service. I enjoy making my own PCBs. I know they do not look very professional, but they don't have to The layout is on the PDF file below and the Eagle Files inside the ZIP .. I don't know if you can use them online, as I said I never used any PCB online service A little note about the Eagle files.. They are a mess
I attempted to create the CC2500 RF module in Eagle, and I thought I did it successfully. But the pins/pads look very large and touch each other I had to edit them on Inkscape.. If someone knows how to correct that in eagle I would appreciate it
You also need:
IC1 - ATMega AVR 8-16 AU. Package - TQFP-32
Y1 - 16Mhz Resonator. CSTCE16M0V53-RO Ceramic Crystal SMD 16MHZ
I bought mine from here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331986072860?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
CC2500 RF module - I bought mine from here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351848912251?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
D1, D2 - 1N4148 (Normal small through hole diodes)
LED1 - Chose your favorite color Package size is 0805
Extra Schottky Diode (Optional, See text) - I used a BAT42W. But you can use any small Schottky Diode that can handle about 200mA. A bit less is also OK as this receiver doesn't use much current.
C1 - 10uF/16V (or more), package size 0805
C2 - 100nF, package size 0805
R1 - 10K Through hole resistor. (Optional)
R2 - 470 Ohm, package size 0805
R3, R4 - 68 Ohm, package size 0805
R5 - 1K5, package size 0805
BIND - Tactile Push Button Switch 6 X 6 X 9.5mm (search on ebay)
JP1_FlASH - I used a 2 pin 2.54mm female pin header. This is used only if you install the bootloader and want to flash the firmware through this USB Bootloader. If you don't flash the bootloader, and just flash the firmware using the ISP programmer, you don't need this jumper.
A piece of thick plastic - to glue on the back of the USB connector on the PCB. It makes it a bit thicker so it allows for a good connection to the PC's USB socket (See Pictures above).
3.3V ISP Programmer - For example a UsbAsp programmer used to flash the 9x radio. Some are able to deliver 3.3V and some don't. You must use one that is able to output 3.3V logic levels. Normally the ones that can do it, have a shunt/jumper that allows to change between 3.3V and 5V. THIS IS IMPORTANT.
My favorite is a mySmartUSB Light. And we can change between 5V and 3.3V using a utility on the computer.
If you don't have a programmer that is capable of 3.3V or you are not sure if yours can do it, there is an alternative. Flash the Bootloader, or firmware BEFORE you solder the CC2500 RF module in place. This is very important.
http://shop.myavr.com/index.php?sp=arti ... tID=200006
Connect the Programmer
I believe the picture below pretty much explains it, so I'm not going into detail on how to solder some thin wires to the board For programming the fuses and flashing the bootloader, or flashing the firmware via ISP, use your favorite software. I used "AVR Studio 4".
IMPORTANT - Before you try to program fuses or flash something to the chip ALWAYS do a read first. For example, read the fuses. Only proceed to program something after you had a successful read. Otherwise you could brick the microcontroller. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.
Programming the Fuses
Once you did a successful read, proceed to program the following fuses to the Atmega8:
High = 0xc0
Low = 0x9f
Decision, Bootloader or not?
Now it is the right time to decide whether you want to flash the Bootloader first, or proceed to flash the firmware directly with the ISP Programmer.
If you flash the bootloader, you can remove the ISP programming wires you have just soldered and further receiver firmware updates can be installed using the USB connection to the PC.
If you flash the firmware without flashing the bootloader, and if you want to update the firmware when/if a new version is released, or if there is some problem, you will have to solder all the wires again to be able to flash the chip. But then again, you might never need to do it again,soooo... up to you really
I recommend to install the bootloader. Why? because of the reason explained above, and also because flashing the bootloader or the firmware via ISP need exactly the same procedure. Updating the firmware via USB using the bootloader is very easy.
Before proceeding please download and extract the following ZIP file.
You will find 3 files inside:
USB_bootloader.hex - The Bootloader
HIDBootFlash.exe - The utility used to flash the firmware over USB (I think this runs on windows only)
FrskyRx_USB.hex - The firmware file you will flash to the receiver. Flash this file using the ISP programmer if you decide not to flash the bootloader
Flashing the Bootloader
After successfully programming the fuses, and using your software of choice, flash the file "USB_bootloader.hex" to the chip. If all good, you can now remove the wires you've soldered to the board. They won't be needed anymore unless something went wrong.
Flashing the Firmware
Now connect the jumper to the board.
Next insert the board in your computer's USB port. Your device should appear in the device manager (See picture). Start the utility by double clicking the file "HIDBootFlash.exe"
Next click on "Find Device" If all is ok and your board was found, the "Open hex File" and "Flash Device" buttons will become available.
Click on "Open hex File", navigate to the firmware file you have just downloaded "FrskyRx_USB.hex" and click "Open".
Next click on "Flash Device" to flash the firmware to the receiver. You will see some numbers scrolling, and at the end the utility will display ":-) Finished flashing the device".
You're done flashing. Close the utility, disconnect the Dongle from the USB socket and remove the jumper plug/wire.
Bind the RX to your radio.
Bind the "FrskyRX_USB dongle" to your favorite FrSky RF Module, or to the Multiprotocol module if yours support the Frsky "D" Protocol. Here is how:
Plug your FrskyRX Dongle to an available USB socket on your PC while pressing the "BIND" button. The LED will turn ON. Release the button..
Turn your radio ON with the FrSky RF module in Bind mode. After some seconds, the LED should start blinking slowly. That means that Binding is completed. Disconnect the dongle and turn the radio OFF.
Now next time you power them together, the RX LED should be ON. If you turn the radio OFF or signal is lost, the LED will blink fast.
Done, go fly your favorite simulator wireless
StripBoard version of the Dongle using a through hole Atmega8
I understand that not everybody can do fine soldering, and make their own PCBs. So I have built another FrskyRX_Dongle using a much bigger through hole Atmega8 chip, Crystal, and all the other components. The only one that should need some fine soldering is the CC2500 module, if you use the same one as above . You could actually get a much bigger one that is for sure easier to solder. Still not StripBoard compatible though as the pin spacing is 2mm and the board hole spacing is 2.54mm. but much easier to handle. Please see this module:
http://www.banggood.com/CC2500-PA-LNA-R ... mds=search
It is a bit more expensive than the other though. This is the module that I use on my full range Frsky DIY compatible receivers. Another wonderful project from Midelic.
Here is the list of components:
All resistors are the smallest you can get.
R2 - 470R
R3, R4 - 68R
R5 - 1K5
C1 - 10uF / 10V or more. The smallest to can get. You can also place it on it's side on the board if you can't get a very small capacitor.
C2, C3 - 22pF
Cr1 - Crystal HC49/U-S 16Mhz
D1, D2 - 1N4148
D3 - BAT85 (I think that if you replace it with an 1N4148 is also ok)
LED - 3mm
JP1 - Female Pin header for connecting a jumper when flashing via USB using the bootloader.
IC Socket - 28 Pins (Better to use a socket instead of soldering the Atmega directly to the board. Avoids overheating the chip when soldering it, and it is easy to replace it if needed.. There are also 2 wires under the IC, the socket allows them to be placed there..
BIND BUTTON - Tactile Push Button Switch 6 X 6 X 9.5mm (search on ebay)
An old USB cable - Please see pinout.
Cut the StripBoard to the right size. Count the horizontal and vertical holes. Then cut the tracks as shown on the pictures. Now solder all the wires, resistors and diodes. Watch the diodes polarity. The stripe on their body indicates the cathode (K). Solder all the other components in place. If you couldn't find a small enough 10uF capacitor (C1), just place it on its side and solder it's legs to the right "+" and "-" holes, that means, watch its polarity. Electrolytic Capacitors can explode if soldered the wrong way.
Solder the IC socket, the push button, the jumper pin header, and the USB cable. DO NOT use the pictures of my board as reference to build yours because there are differences.. I have changed/improved the design after I built my prototype board
The next pictures are just for to you have an idea.. The placement of the wires and some components is different. DO NOT copy them. After you've soldered all components, it is time to connect your favorite programmer so you can program the fuses and flash the Bootloader to the chip.
This picture shows how to connect the ISP programmer to the board. After you did this, carefully insert the ATmega8 chip in the 28 pin IC socket. Be careful not to bend/damage any pin. You might have to bend all pins a little towards the center of the chip so it fits. To do it, place the chip on its side on a flat surface like a table (pins on the table) and holding the chip's body force it in the direction of the pins so they are square with the body. Repeat this with the other side's pins. Make sure you insert the chip in the socket the right way round. See pictures Now Connect your programmer to the chip and proceed to program the fuses and the bootloader. Please see above how to do it, it is exactly the same procedure as with the PCB version of the" FrskyRX Dongle".
DO NOT connect the USB cable to your PC at this point.
DO NOT forget to read the fuses before you program them to make sure all connections are good and the PC is seeing your chip
Once you've successfully flashed the bootloader, please remove the ISP programmer wires and flash the firmware via USB using the bootloader as explained above. From now on use this method to flash the firmware to the chip if there are other updates available, or if for some reason it stops working.. No more need for an ISP programmer, unless something goes really wrong.
The last step is to solder the RF module to the board. It is placed on the underside of the board.This is probably the only complicated step. Solder thin wires to the RF Module. Be careful not to create shorts between the module's pads. They are only 1.2mm from each other, very small Then solder the wires to the board as shown.
After soldering the module to the board, make sure you isolate it from the board to avoid shorts. I used some heat shrink tube. Test your dongle by binding it to your radio, and if all is working, protect it with some heat shrink tube/sleeve. Cut some holes for the LED and bind button. I did secure the USB cable to the board with hot glue before I heat shrinked it. Enjoy
João
My er9x/Ersky9x/eepskye Video Tutorials
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5uJhoD7sAKidZmkhMpYpp_qcuIqJXhb9
Donate to Er9x/Ersky9x:
https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=YHX43JR3J7XGW
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5uJhoD7sAKidZmkhMpYpp_qcuIqJXhb9
Donate to Er9x/Ersky9x:
https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=YHX43JR3J7XGW
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Very interesting and also tempting, but I need my Phoenix RC Sim
br KH
br KH
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
I am still working on the tutorial.. Will finish it tomorrow
Well, if you have a phoenix, then.... bad luck.. You should have got other sim. Joking
João
Well, if you have a phoenix, then.... bad luck.. You should have got other sim. Joking
João
My er9x/Ersky9x/eepskye Video Tutorials
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5uJhoD7sAKidZmkhMpYpp_qcuIqJXhb9
Donate to Er9x/Ersky9x:
https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=YHX43JR3J7XGW
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5uJhoD7sAKidZmkhMpYpp_qcuIqJXhb9
Donate to Er9x/Ersky9x:
https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=YHX43JR3J7XGW
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Finished for now.. Go build your own Frsky Compatible USB Simulator Dongle
Don't forget to share your build here
João
Don't forget to share your build here
João
My er9x/Ersky9x/eepskye Video Tutorials
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5uJhoD7sAKidZmkhMpYpp_qcuIqJXhb9
Donate to Er9x/Ersky9x:
https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=YHX43JR3J7XGW
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5uJhoD7sAKidZmkhMpYpp_qcuIqJXhb9
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Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
First post updated with the through hole version
João
João
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Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Hi,
Interesting project. Thanks for the tutorial. One question though - can the larger CC2500 be used without the antenna? I have a couple of them lying around, but they have antenna connector on them and the dongle would be very bulky with a full 2.4 GHz anntenna attached.
Interesting project. Thanks for the tutorial. One question though - can the larger CC2500 be used without the antenna? I have a couple of them lying around, but they have antenna connector on them and the dongle would be very bulky with a full 2.4 GHz anntenna attached.
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
I would say no, they dont. I believe they could even get damaged.
You could use a normal receiver antenna (not a dipole antenna) and roll it in a circle (not too tight), and probably hot glue it to the PCB.
Another idea is to shorten the antenna. Cut the antenna's coaxial cable shorter, and then expose the center wire maintaining the same length as before..
Even the big module will output low power because the PA/LNA pins aren't connected, and therefore not active..
You could use a normal receiver antenna (not a dipole antenna) and roll it in a circle (not too tight), and probably hot glue it to the PCB.
Another idea is to shorten the antenna. Cut the antenna's coaxial cable shorter, and then expose the center wire maintaining the same length as before..
Even the big module will output low power because the PA/LNA pins aren't connected, and therefore not active..
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Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Just put a 30mm piece of wire as antenna.
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Yep that works too. Just solder it to the pad that connects to the center pin of the u.FL connector. Be careful not to short it to ground.
João
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Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Ordered boards yesterday and parts today. Hopefully the boards turn out alright, thanks to João/jhsa for the eagle files.
If everything turns out fine one of us can upload the gerber files in a .zip or .rar so that they can be submitted straight to a pcb manufacturer. I'll wait for my boards to arrive before I do that and have anyone waste cash on a file that I've created incorrectly though.
Cheers
Tim
If everything turns out fine one of us can upload the gerber files in a .zip or .rar so that they can be submitted straight to a pcb manufacturer. I'll wait for my boards to arrive before I do that and have anyone waste cash on a file that I've created incorrectly though.
Cheers
Tim
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
PCB's arrived, as mentioned in the other thread the tang is a tad wide so will need to be filed down, I already did one as a test with some fine sandpaper and it was very fast, they are only just too big.
I'll wait until I've got one working and then sort out a .stl file for a case to 3D print for this.
I'll wait until I've got one working and then sort out a .stl file for a case to 3D print for this.
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Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Excuse me for message here, but i cant find thread better
How to enter to _bind_ mode for DIY FrSky TX/RX Module? https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpo ... ostcount=1
TX module!
How to bind Rx i know
How to enter to _bind_ mode for DIY FrSky TX/RX Module? https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpo ... ostcount=1
TX module!
How to bind Rx i know
good food & warm summer
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Did you ask on the thread you just linked?
João
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João
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Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
I asked, but no answers. No one know
I studying of the src also gave nothing, except for the assumption that the connection occurs every time it is turned on.
ABBC3_SPOILER_SHOW
I studying of the src also gave nothing, except for the assumption that the connection occurs every time it is turned on.
good food & warm summer
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
That RF module project has long been abandoned and replaced by the Multiprotocol project.. You can build your own multiprotocol module. easy if you only need the Frsky Protocol
Please see:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthr ... -TX-Module
https://github.com/pascallanger/DIY-Mul ... -TX-Module
João
Please see:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthr ... -TX-Module
https://github.com/pascallanger/DIY-Mul ... -TX-Module
João
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Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
I finally remembered to come back and attach the fixed up files (without pads touching) that I ordered the PCBs with.
Anyone ordering a set should double check these first!
Anyone ordering a set should double check these first!
- Attachments
-
- FrskyRX-Simulator Dongle.zip
- (17.29 KiB) Downloaded 323 times
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Thank you..
João
João
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Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Do you also have the eagle files? I would like to have the fixed module library, if it is ok with you
Thanks
João
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Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Hi,
I built the rx and I was able to write the fuses correctly and I was able to flash the bootloader (or the firmware but only without bootloader).
My problem is that the rx isn't recognized correctly by my pc. (picture below)
bootloader and jumper connected = picture below
bootloader without jumper = not recognized by my pc at all
firmware directly flashed (without bootloader) = picture below
What do you think? Is it a driver problem or something in the module? I tested on 2 windows10 pcs and I had the same result.
I hope you can help me
rcfish
I built the rx and I was able to write the fuses correctly and I was able to flash the bootloader (or the firmware but only without bootloader).
My problem is that the rx isn't recognized correctly by my pc. (picture below)
bootloader and jumper connected = picture below
bootloader without jumper = not recognized by my pc at all
firmware directly flashed (without bootloader) = picture below
What do you think? Is it a driver problem or something in the module? I tested on 2 windows10 pcs and I had the same result.
I hope you can help me
rcfish
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Strange, it should be recognized in "Human Interface Devices, as HID-compliant game controller"
I remember that when I first built mine it wasn't also recognized.. I had to uninstall some driver.. It was a while ago.
Then it worked..
One thing you can try.. Do you have some old USB2.0 ports? try it there..
João
I remember that when I first built mine it wasn't also recognized.. I had to uninstall some driver.. It was a while ago.
Then it worked..
One thing you can try.. Do you have some old USB2.0 ports? try it there..
João
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Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
I tried it in USB2.0 ports. I guess I do some research about the drivers.
Can you remeber the drivers name?
rcfish
Can you remeber the drivers name?
rcfish
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
This error is before the driver, it's the hardware handshake that already doesn't work.
You'd get that if you have the 2 USB data pins swapped for example, or some other hardware issue...
You'd get that if you have the 2 USB data pins swapped for example, or some other hardware issue...
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
I changed the usb (two times) and I rebuilt the rx on a breadboard and I get the same result. Do you think that the atmega might be faulty? I also haven't installed the cc2500. I sadly don't have another atmega to test it.
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Just a little update on my problem ...
I missed a solder joint . Anyway it's working perfectly now. Thanks for the cool project. I just got one question left. Is there a firmware version for this usb dongle with frsky X protocol?
Here are some pictures of my build Thanks for the project.
I missed a solder joint . Anyway it's working perfectly now. Thanks for the cool project. I just got one question left. Is there a firmware version for this usb dongle with frsky X protocol?
Here are some pictures of my build Thanks for the project.
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Nope, there isn't as far as I know. Midelic started working on a X protocol receiver, but didn't quite finish, again, as far as I know.. Perhaps he lost interest in it I do have a couple working DIY X receivers that I built.. they work well, but still need some little problems ironed out..
I wish he would find time to finish the project, as it is really nice.
João
I wish he would find time to finish the project, as it is really nice.
João
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Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Not DIY, but FrSky now make a ready to use product with a built in X receiver.
https://www.horusrc.com/en/frsky-xsr-sim.html
https://www.horusrc.com/en/frsky-xsr-sim.html
Re: FrskyRX_USB dongle
Cool But for the sim the D protocol should be enough? Unless your radio can't do it of course
João
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